Lots a great casas in Vinales, just make sure you book/stay for one night before commiting to a longer stay.
Our first casa was not so good. I felt bad leaving as the folks were not well off. But the location and the flies / cleanliness were a problem for me.
We walked around and found a casa on the main intersection corner and immediately knew we had to change rooms.
This location was perfect for watching Cuba go by. With the room and patio out back under the banana trees, it was quiet, shaded and lots of air!
Vinales can be seen in one day. but we took 5 days. Most of our time was spent as the Cubans, going slowly and...doing nothing!