We took the Valparaiso to Rio Holland America cruise in February 2012. In Ushuaia, Argentina, four of us took an independent tour instead of the ship-sponsored excursion. Good fortune was with us and we found a guide at the dock who was terrific. He spoke English and that was a real plus. Perhaps only about 30% of the independent guides do so. He showed us several extra nooks in the city that the larger tours exclude. He told us a lot about himself and typical life in Ushuaia. It was a Friday evening, and traffic was heavy, and his tour ran longer than he had predicted, but he didn't increase his fee. And that fee was well under what the ship-sponsored excursion cost. By the time we said good-bye we had had a good trip around this southernmost city on the planet and were carrying away happy memories. Our guide's name was Mario Miraglia. He said he books a significant part of his tours from referrals. That tells you right there that he is a gem. He can be reached at email@example.com. You won't go wrong with Mario!