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Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

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posts: 1,315
reviews: 105
Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

Spent four days in Buenos Aires in late November 2013, here are some thoughts.

My preconceptions about BA were happily dispelled. I booked to arrive in AEP and found clearing the airport very smooth. Same experience leaving, except that as it is a small airport, there aren't enough jetways so we had to do the bus and stairclimb thing, not great on a windy night in biting rain when people are taking their time getting seated.... Another was about Argentinians (mainly from comments from other South Americans from other countries). I found them incredibly friendly and helpful, willing to try English as I had hardly any Spanish. Also found BA safe.

Area stayed - Recoleta. I enjoyed this neighborhood, central enough to walk to the centre, Puerto Madero, MALBA, and a cheap taxi ride to Palermo, etc. I enjoyed visiting Palermo Soho, and I enjoyed leaving even better. Recoleta seems less touristy, more "real". And safe even for a single woman to walk around after dark.


- weekend tour of Casa Rosada (well-recommended).

- Recoleta Cemetary (you can do this without a tour; as you enter, turn right towards the original entrance and you'll find a map there to help you locate Eva Peron's crypt).

- Fine Arts museum (Museo De Belas Artes) - free and fantastic.

- MALBA - only A$40 (about US$4) and also fantastic. Note it opens only at noon.

- La Boca - went in the late afternoon as things were closing, but found a restaurant with a lovely Cuban band and singer, so we decided to stay for a drink and soak in the atmosphere. With a A$10 tip each, cheapest concert I've been to!


- Palermo Soho is great for shopping, starts to really happen only after noon. Use this guide for some of the best shops: gringoinbuenosaires.com/buenos-aires-shoppin…

- Bullrich Mall has some nice boutiques

- San Telmo Sunday market has some great crafts, especially in the middle section. Towards the end near Mexico, there is a cheap place to refuel called El Rey De Chori (King of Chorizos): pickupthefork.com/2013/…

- Celedonio Lohidoy - note he has moved, still in Recoleta, to Uruguay: http://www.celedonio.com.ar/

Food. Had some great meals for incredible prices. Micro-reviews:

1. i-Latini: excellent 7-course meal involving lots of coconut, lime and other flavours. Coffee was made the traditional Colombian way, in a ig pot with cinnamon, so even though our meal ended past midnight we had to try it. Paired with an excellent Torrontes, with a nice tip, came to A$700 each (less than US$100!). Definitely deserves its top ranking on TA.

2. Chila - originally wanted to try Tegui but it was closed as it was a public holiday. Luckily Chila was open. Despite some reviews that it was too "conservative", had a great meal paired with a very nice San Felicien Malbec.

3. La Cabrera - weird experience where we were made to wait 45 minutes even though the restaurant was almost empty. Three of us shared the 500 gm wagyu steak. Excellent, and came with a lot of sides, so we wished the waiter had warned us so we did not have to order a salad to start. We also made the mistake of ordering lemon-champagne sorbet. It's actually an ice-cream float using champagne instead of soda!

4. La Pecora Nera - while it was fine, I was a little under-whelmed. Best Italian in the city? Seems they could do better.

Some other tips:

- I got the blue rate of 1:9.7 and when I changed too much, was able to change back to dollars at about the same. I found my cambio in Recoleta by asking the concierge at my hotel. I would suggest trying that first before resorting to Florida (which my concierge warned me against).

- try to plan your trip to avoid public holidays. Even more than Sundays, everything will be closed.

- we took a mix of radio and non-radio taxis. Found radio taxis slightly more knowledgeable about streets.

That's about all I can think of for now, feel free to ask questions!


Edited: 5:00 am, November 29, 2013
7 replies to this topic
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 3,216
reviews: 42
1. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

BonVivant, Gracias !

You have posted a concise, yet information-packed, report on a 'concise visit' to BsAs. The links you provided will be valuable to many new and future visitors....and even to repeaters, like myself.

posts: 135
reviews: 60
2. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

hi bonvivant, were all the shops closed on sunday?

Destination Expert
for Livigno, Lombardy
posts: 39,207
reviews: 127
3. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

What a wondeful report, unfortunately when we were there it was election weekend so we couldn't visit the Casa Rosada but I'm really looking forward to visiting it on our next visit, you've also given me some other restaurants to add to my list, thank you so much for sharing.

posts: 1,315
reviews: 105
4. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

Thanks all for reading!

Supertearz, the shops were open on Sunday although they start going later, from noon on. That is why I was surprised many things were closed on the public holiday. I really enjoyed the atmosphere of San Telmo on Sunday and all the shops there were open.

Santa Maria...
posts: 2
reviews: 4
5. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

Thank you for the information. I am curious about renting a car. Would you recommend renting a car to get to a resort or is public transport safe and reliable?

6. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

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Buenos Aires...
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 16,399
reviews: 14
7. Re: Trip Report - four days in Buenos Aires

Carmen, I don't know what resort you are considering but the distances in Argentina are great .. it takes hours to get anywhere, the drivers are insane and if you speak Spanish you might be better off also.

All the Malls are open on weekends and not all shops on the street are open on Sundays. Palermo Soho is open for shopping, because that is .. what they do :) but not "all" shops in BA are open on Sundays.

Food markets are open though ..

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