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Trip Report

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Abilene, Texas
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 7,112
reviews: 65
Trip Report

I have been in Buenos Aires a little over a week. I am here with a large group of undergrad students from the United States for an eight week program. During the first two weeks of our program we provide a great deal of structure, which gives students an opportunity to adapt to their new environment....after a couple of weeks, they are expected to do more on their own...

I have done this same program for several years now, so I can compare present and past experiences. Our tours are all conducted by Eternauatas http://www.eternautas.com/ a self styled group of historians from UBA....actually, most guides are students at UBA, though a few are professors. Our transportation has been provided by Vasco Tours. We have also gone to Sr. Tango for a dinner show and visited estancia Cinacina, as well as several lectures at the Universidad de Buenos Aires.

Eternautaus Tours

I have used Eternatuaus for four years. This agency is more expensive than most, but I have been willing to spend the extra money because of the quality of the tours. Many of the tours this year have maintained the level of excellence I have come to expect, with one disappointing exception.

Buenos Aires Sur (Plaza de Mayo, La Boca, Puerto Madero, San Telmo).

Conducted by a new guide, this is the worst tour I have taken with Eternautaus. The tour was rushed, omitting many details that have been the highlights of this tour in years past. For example, we stopped at Plaza de Mayo, but did not go into the National Cathedral or receive any information about the Cathedral....We whizzed by the waiving girl walking bridge in Puerto Madero, whereas in previous years we have stopped and walked across. We saw San Telmo from the window of the bus, without stopping. The stop in La Boca was not preceeded by a lecture about the birth of tango or a warning not to wander away from la Camintia...just a wave of the hand, and a reminder that the bus would leave in twenty minutes. All in all, this tour was no better than a typical "city tour" by the BSAS version of Gray Line tours....whiz through the city with a guide pointing to variouis landmarks visible out the window.

We could have done the latter for a fraction of the cost.

Jewish Buenos Aires

Phenomenonal tour of Once neighborhood (described as an "open" ghetto") ,two Jewish synagogues and stops at the sites of two terrorists bombings of Jewish sites in the 90s in Buenos Aires. Jewish and non-Jewish people who enjoy learning about culture and variations within a culture, will enjoy this glimpse into Jewish life in a Latin American setting. In one of the synogogues the Rabbi provided us with a brief lecture and responded to questions about Jewish life in Argentina.

Walking Tour of Palermo Soho

Another excellent tour of the area, from a stop at the home of Borges to Plaza Serrano, to an overview of the restaurants and designer shops that are springing up everywhere in this trendy area.

San Telmo Market

The guide did a walking tour for about thirty minutes, pointing out various landmarks, and provided an overview of the Sunday Market, with a warning the some of the antiques for sale are "quite new." We were turned loose for 1.5 hours to shop anb explore, before meeting up for the ride home. Nicely done...and San Telmo was a hubub of activity! Jammed with people....I counted 7 sweatshirts or caps from various USA universities, so Americans are in evidence. Lots of street entertainers and street vendors and bars and restaurants make for a nice day.

Art and Architecture

Our guide was an art history student at UBA. She showed us various architectural styles in evidence in Buenos Aires, and took us to Teatro Colon for the English language tour and on to MALBA, where she served as our art guide...pointing out the different genres of art, the evolution of the work of serveral local artists....and noting the more famous artists displayed here. Very informative. I have done the back stage tour at Teatro Colon enough times that I found myself zoning out during the tour, but first timers will enjoy it....For me, the highlight of this tour was the knowledgeable explanation and interpretation of various works in the MALBA museum.....

http://www.senortango.com.ar/

Dinner show at Senor Tango. Always fun! We do dinner and the show here, because seating is better with dinner....And if you stick to the steak, the food is actually pretty good. And the wine is plentiful, which makes for a fun evening. The show itself is a blend of traditional folk music and Tango, including dancing, singing and music from the orchestra. Students love this show, which is a nicely done stage show.....(When my daughter and son-in-law visit, I plan to take them to Tacoeando, thanks to Veritas's tip....so I will let you know what I think of this venue later).

mystravels.com.ar/estancias/lacinacina.htm

Estancia CinaCina...this is the fourth estancia I have visited.....this one is somewhere in the middle in my opinion...in terms of the quality of food and entertainment. Don Silvano, Santa Susana are about the same...all offer a day of food, displays of horsemanship, gaucho singing and dance, and an opportunity to ride horses or go for a buggy ride. Nice escape from the city......

More to come.....

Buenos AIres
posts: 5,722
reviews: 2
1. Re: Trip Report

DD we do have to kick some a...in Eternautas ! LOL, or give Robert Wright ( or others) a chance. Can´t belive Eternautas did that mistake !

In my opinion they ( Eternautas) are the type that learns fast, so this shoudn´t happen again....

keep "delivering" profe...

:)

North Carolina
posts: 1,449
reviews: 320
2. Re: Trip Report

Thank you, Doc. What a great report...keep it coming....

Buenos Aires...
posts: 4,147
reviews: 3
3. Re: Trip Report

Great report, Doc Holliday!!! Keep them coming!!!

However, I wish to point out that, in order to get from you this great report, both my fan club President and yours truly had to beg you for a trip report, in another forum!

You can bet we'll go on doing it, if necessary! LOL!!!

San Diego...
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 4,397
reviews: 679
4. Re: Trip Report

You are truly lucky DD to have someone paying for your trips to BA! I remember all those trips that I came down to BA before I moved here. No one was paying my tab except for me. You really are a lucky guy to have your employer paying for your trips!

Keep up the good work...

Buenos Aires
posts: 400
5. Re: Trip Report

Dr Dawggy

You mentioned an omitted lecture in La Boca about the birth of tango, the fact is that there is no place in the city farther to the birth of tango than La Boca...

Abilene, Texas
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 7,112
reviews: 65
6. Re: Trip Report

Gaucho,

I would be very interested in hearing your take on the birth of Tango, since most web sites and tour guides point to La Boca as the the center of the birth of Tango...Whether it originated in the brothels or migrated t them, most authors still believe Tango came from the working class neighborhoods of La Boca and San Telmo and eventually found its way to respectable middle class neighborhoods only after the dance became fashionable in Paris....exported, so the story goes, by rich young men from Buenos Aires who were abroad and who had learned the dance on their trips to brothels in the southern barrios of Buenos Aires.....

7. Re: Trip Report

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Buenos Aires
posts: 400
8. Re: Trip Report

Avrooster: do you think that to become the tango expert I need to learn how to dance tango?

Dr. Dawggy: find at least one tango lyric were you can find La Boca mentioned, or anything referred to that neighborhood

Buenos Aires...
posts: 4,147
reviews: 3
9. Re: Trip Report

Gaucho: you are answering a question which has been vaporized. That's what I LOVE about this forum. LOL!!!

About your challenge to the TOP LOCAL EXPERT Drdawggy:

"La Boca... Callejón... Vuelta de Rocha..."

Just for starters.

10. Re: Trip Report

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Removed on: 5:44 pm, May 26, 2006