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Trip Report

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Richmond, Virginia
posts: 139
reviews: 3
Trip Report

First, many thanks to those on this forum who offered advice before and during our second trip to Buenos Aires, from which my wife, son and I have just returned.  The reason this trip report is somewhat thin is because we didn't, by design, do much of anything on this trip that merits a report!

For the most part, we just watched the world go by, explored neighborhoods, sat in parks, poked around little shops and markets, and ate in restaurants chosen on on the spot... essentially soaking up the vibes of the city in a more relaxed mode that we did three years ago.  For us, it was the perfect city holiday.  (0K, it did get a bit warm there a couple of times!).

The only observations I can offer that conceivably could be of interest to anyone contemplating a visit are:

Arrival & departure:  Used Taxi Ezeiza to and from airport.   No advance reservation on arrival and booked online for return.  Easy. 

Apartment Rental:  Used Reynolds Propiedades.   Smooth and professional in every way.   Would recommend them.   Comprable with the positive experience we had last time with BA Habitat. 

Neighborhood:   As has been discussed on this forum, the Palermo Botanico neighborhood has a lot going for it.  Not as posh as Recoleta, perhaps,  nor as trendy as  Palermo Soho or Hollywood, but a very pleasant mix of residential and services, and easy in which quickly to feel at "home." Thanks to Marnie and Ricardo for pointing us in that direction.

Prices:   Noticeably higher on a broad range of stuff than I remember from late 2008.   Still a refreshing value compared with, say, Europe, but clearly no longer the breathtaking bargain it was.   Parenthetically, and maybe I missed it, but the black market dollar exchange option was not as evident as I had for whatever reason imagined.   

Chinatown:  We like good Chinese food and found some in Chinatown -- there's a cluster of restaurants around Arribenos y Mendoza in Belgrano.    

Lujan:  Took day-trip to Lujan, primarily so my rail enthusiast son could ride the local train (out of Once station).   Let's just say we're not talking the Eurostar here.   In Lujan, the Basilica is impressive enough, I suppose, but this outing probably needn't rise to the top of a visitor's must-do list.  Incidentally, I had in Lujan not only my worst meal  in Argentina, but maybe the worst meal in my life!  We had lunch in what seemed to be the most popular place on the square, a bustling parrilla buffet libre.  Truly inedible meat.  At least I think it was meat.  The locals were chowing down enthusiastically, though, so go figure. 

Running:   In addition to riding trains, my son is a runner.  For him, the Palermo parks, as Scarlett suggested, were wonderful.  Also, if any runners happen to be in BA over new years, the San Silvestre 8K race, for which they close Av 9 de Julio and some other big streets downtown, is something to consider.  Easy to sign up online.  

Montevideo:  Side trip to Montevideo was a highlight for us.  Very pleasant, almost laid back city (at least compared with BA, and at least in the Pocitos area).  Stayed in Pocitos Plaza Hotel.  Not the Sheraton, but perfectly comfortable, ideal location, helpful staff and, at USD $110, a pretty good deal.   Dinner at excellent parrillada recommended by the hotel called La Otra.  Lunch at Mercado del Puerto.  Place was packed with cruise ship day-trippers but still good fun and wouldn't have wanted to miss it.    Buquebus fast ferry is the way to go.  We took the bus/boat combo back and wished we had done the fast boat both ways.  

That's about it.   All in all a great trip and we look forward to the next one.  Thanks again to the DEs for your guidance,  and especially to Verobaires for the helpful PMs on various topics.  

PS - My son and I quite enjoyed meeting Marnie & DH and being the first to hear the story of their' shall we say, not-so-smooth landing.

San Clemente...
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires, Argentina
posts: 10,829
reviews: 5
1. Re: Trip Report

Thanks so much for your excellent trip report. I was so happy to hear that you had another excellent visit to the city.

Thanks for the update on places not to eat in Lujan. I will avoid.

Hurray back to Argentina.


Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires, Argentina
posts: 4,679
reviews: 62
2. Re: Trip Report

Thank YOU brk01 for this valuable trip report!

All your comments will be most helpful for future travelers.

Glad to know you enjoyed your trip.

Buenos Aires...
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 16,808
reviews: 17
3. Re: Trip Report

Excellent report and I love to "watch the world go by", also and think it is a wonderful way to see Buenos Aires.

I am so glad to know you all enjoyed your stay and got to explore farther out.

Thank you .. and hurry back !

B.C. Canada
posts: 915
reviews: 236
4. Re: Trip Report

brk01: "For the most part, we just watched the world go by, explored neighborhoods, sat in parks, poked around little shops and markets, and ate in restaurants chosen on on the spot... essentially soaking up the vibes of the city in a more relaxed mode."

We did a lot of that our first trip. Love finding little neighborhood restaurants full of local people, walking through all the parks from Palermo Botanico to Recoleta, cruising the shops & markets, going to art galleries & museums, etc. On our return trip, Jan/March, we hope to do much of same same. We will be adding some side trips to various towns & cities that we can get to by bus or train.

Boulder, Colorado
posts: 1,253
reviews: 304
5. Re: Trip Report

"Watching the world go by",etc is truly what makes BA SO terrific!!!!!!!

Palermo Botanico on the border of Chico is "home" for us.

Adore the museums and parks and restaurants.

Montevideo IS on the agenda for our next trip: probably Nov.2012.....but I'm jealous now of all the folks presently having a great time there.

Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 3,501
reviews: 47
6. Re: Trip Report

Quite a nice TR, brk, and good tips to follow, too. We will surly head to Chinatown and the area you suggested - gracias.


Nice, France
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 2,345
reviews: 4
7. Re: Trip Report

brk, doing nothing sounds like the "Perfect Trip Report". I've decided to start doing nothing -well, almost - on my next, 6th visit to BA. Maybe eventually I'll go with no itinerary at all.

Buenos Aires...
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 16,808
reviews: 17
8. Re: Trip Report

For anyone heading to Chinatown, don't go on Monday, they are closed. Sunday they are mobbed but it can be fun. We go at the end of the week and find it to be just right .. shop at the big market where people in the neighborhood line up at the window to buy take-out and have a meal at the place on the corner that is Pink.

Obviously, I am unable to remember any names at this time. :)

After browsing the couple of blocks that comprise Chinatown, walk up hill towards Santa Fe and visit the Larreta Museum .. even if the interiors of the home do not appeal, the gardens are heavenly.

Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 3,501
reviews: 47
9. Re: Trip Report

Good idea, Scarlett, we enjoyed the Larreta Museum and the small garden.

10. Re: Trip Report

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