We just returned from CR and visited Tortuga Is with a cataramaran trip on Dec 30 2011. Each tour company has their own chunk of the beach staked out with dining tables and a cooking shelter. We didn't see more than 5 boats moored offshore and some left the beach before we did. There was a small gift shop there. We saws lots of wildlife including deer, turkey, wild pig/boar, peacocks, and local birds (they were kept) incl macaws and a parrot.
The beach is only about 1/2 km long and it was busy but since it's high season we were prepared for that. There is lots of beach between trees and water so it didn't feel too crowded. We enjoyed snorkelling (there is a boat to take you out to a nearby spot) and the banana boat + a good lunch of ceviche, chicken and salads plus a few Imperial beers. Other than the beach area though, there is really no where to walk or explore as everything seems to be off-limits.
All in all it was a decent outing with 4 adults 2 kids under 7 yrs old and nice to sail on a cataramaran for something different.