OK....I'm a hippy backpacker....please don't tell my mother. I'm also a 56 yr old male with a professional occupation that pays me quite well enough to travel a lot of places, Puerto Viejo included. I have a braid to mid back because I want to and I carry some of my travel gear in a backpack because it's convenient and I like to.
OK rant over. I guess my point is that everybody is a little different and everybody likes what they like. We were in PV area in January (with the braid and the backpack...(tho it rode in the rental car with us) and I never felt in the least bit threatened, by other "hippies", by "normal" people, by the police, or by the locals.
We drove through the aforementioned POLICE CHECKPOINT at least 5 times and the first time we went through they asked for our passports....I put on my stupidface (i'm quite good at that) and said I didn't know we were supposed to carry them at all times. The policeman told us to take our passports to the police trailer (I dunno if it's there all the time) and ask a certain person to make copies and carry those. He didn't search, he didn't hassle for money, he didn't intimidate. When we passed through on later occasions (with our passport copies) we saw him and a couple of other officers, he asked us what we'd seen so far and the others asked if we were enjoying our stay. Maybe other travelers have felt threatened but I've never heard anybody mention it. It appears that the checkpoint is combat potential illegal immigration from Panama and further south and has little to do with tourists.
I read what you were looking for as a honeymoon location (congrats by the way) and I'd say Puerto Viejo is perfect. Cameleon wasn't finished when we were there but it looked very nice (a little fancy for the old hippy.....I couldn't let that slide) and it's in a great location very near the beach. Brand spanking new, very white and very classy resorty looking......
I've kind of tried to pull comparable locations outta my travel memory and the best I can come up with in the US would be maybe the Fla panhandle or the south Keys, not for comparable scenery (PV is was prettier and better nature)but for a grand mix of people, locals and travelers, that play a big role in making the area what it is. Rich, poor, gay, straight, resort types, hostel types, young, old,hippies, cowboys, the occasional raving conspiracy theorists, an elderly man writing and reading poetry to his wife on black beach north of PV. They're all part of the color, the fiber, the tenor of the place that we fell in love with and we're going back to in October.
Don't go to PV prepared to be afraid, also don't go prepared to be stupid (out alone late at night drunk looking for trouble). Exhibit a little common sense (much as you would at home anywhere), see the differences as you would see the differences between mountains and deserts that you visit, and I'm hoping (and kind of expecting) that you will fall in love with what we can't wait to go back to.
To quote one of the early "hippies"
......KEEP ON TRUCKIN
Happy Independence Day.....or just happy friday if you're having to work
joe