We just got back for 3.5 weeks in Peru (ok, a couple of days were in Bolivia). The purpose of the trip was to attend an intensive Spanish immersion program in Cusco, as well as to experience the wonderful Inca ruins in and near Cusco -- and, of course, for Jeff to buy as much stuff as possible!

After a grueling flight from Reno to Atlanta to Lima to Cusco, we were met by a driver (Isaias Cardenas, inkatours@terra.com.pe, excellent English, informative, nice guy) who took us to a rental house just outside Urubamba -- 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen, living/dining room, pretty yard (found thru VRBO.com, search for Peru and Sacred Valley). Staying in the Sacred Valley for a few days really helps with acclimatization -- it is only 8000 feet instead of Cusco's 11000, a big difference.

Isaias drove us for the next 3 days -- Salinas for the salineras (salt pans -- drive to the top and walk back down into town), Moray, Ollantaytambo (great ruins, cute town), Pisac (the ruins at the top are magnificent according to my husband and 9 year old-- I'm afraid of heights and couldn't traverse a narrow path beside a cliff, but we all had fun shopping at the Sunday market), Chinchero (again, you can drive to the town and then take the old Inca road down to the valley -- as Jeff did, while Isaias drove us to meet him.) We also just hung out in the towns and even went horseback riding -- there is a small outfit just outside Urubamba on the main road, very reasonable (much less expensive than the horseback riding at Sol y Luna) and with the smooth gaited Peruvian Paso horses -- look for the white sign and the obvious corral. We paid less than $30 per person for a 3+ hour ride into the mountains.

The best place to eat in the Sacred Valley is in Urubamba -- Tres Keros, on the main road thru the valley, just on the outskirts of town towards Ollantay. The owner, Ricardo Behar, is a hoot. He refuses to bribe the big tour operators, so his restaurant, while open for lunch, is not overrun with hourds of day trippers, and at dinner, it is a private, intimate experience. Bring a bottle of good California wine and you have a friend for life! The food is Nouveau Andean and delicious -- simple cuisine of the camposino with a gourmet twist -- we ate there 3/3 nights!! Don't miss the salad of palmitos (hearts of palm), palta (avocado) and ceballos (onions). While expensive by Peruvian standards, Tres Keros could compete with the best Napa Valley has to offer -- at a third of the price! Wonderful, wonderful food -- I'd go back just to have dinner with Ricardo again!

Next: Cusco