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A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Buenos Aires...
posts: 4,147
reviews: 3
A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

I am not exactly a fan of planning too far in advance. So, when last week I realized that the US financial markets (my line of work) had a long weekend right ahead, I said: "let's go to Salta".

A phone call to my travel agent got me two round trip tickets on Aerolíneas for about 250 dollars each. I don't know about the cost for foreigners, but the subject has been covered extensively here and the answer seems to be: use a local travel agent.

The flight was uneventful except for the fact the the Argentina/Germany soccer game was going on during the flight and the pilot let us hear about the game on the intercom. However, someone complained and it was turned off, then on again, but too low to hear properly, etc. The people's mood changed significantly for the worse when Germany tied, not too long before the end.

A car was waiting for us at the airport, but that was a mistake. It was part of an arrangement with people I know in Salta and I should have checked before accepting the package. The cost of being driven into Salta should not be much above 6 dollars. I told them I would not take the same transfer out, hiring my own transportation.

I had chosen the Papyrus Hotel, on advice from this forum. Cost: about 100 dollars a day, including taxes and breakfast for a nice room, overlooking the city of Salta. Maybe I'll comment more on this later.

That evening, we had dinner at a place called "Las Leñitas", a sort of "parrilla" or local steakhouse. We had a good meal, including a bottle of good wine and a great "bife de chorizo", for a little over 30 dollars.

The next chapters will include: María Livia (Saturday), Cafayate wine country, not to be confused with Calafate, in our South (today), Cachi (tomorrow) and I don't know what else. We just had a good dinner for 9 bucks, BTW!!!!

Tomorrow, we are going to be toured to Cachi by forum member and unofficial Salta local expert GIENA!!! We'll see just how good she is!!!

Buenos Aires...
posts: 3,998
reviews: 1
1. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Thanks for your report so far!! I look forward to your next chapters!! have fun!!

So sad about Arg/Germ.... :(

Buenos Aires...
posts: 4,147
reviews: 3
2. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda". Chapter 2.

The flight to Salta takes about two hours. You can also go by bus, but it takes nearly 20 hours. No train.

About where to stay, I suggest researching this forum, as I did, For people who like that kind of place or who may get a free stay using points, there is a new Sheraton, overlooking the main part of town, near the Papyrus, where I am staying. There are a lot of options, from hostels to the Sheraton and everything in between.

I would call Salta a rather traditional town, Others may say it seems frozen in time. If you don´t know what I am talking about, what I mean is that I don't think I saw any guys with long hair or sporting a ponytail. In other words, it is MY kind of town, It is also the kind of place where people do not lock their doors, which is quite wonderful.

About the weather, so far it has been absolutely great. The high yesterday was 24 degrees centigrade, but it gets chilly at night. Remember this is our southern hemisphere winter. I have said before that tourists should tend to visit the northern part of our country during our winter and the South during our summer and I stand by that advice. Of course, if you want to do winter sports, our South is perfect for that purpose, during our winter.

Taxis and "remises" are cheap and plentiful, even cheaper than in Buenos Aires. Remises here have a meter, just like cabs, which is not the case in Buenos Aires.

Do not miss the famous "empanadas salteñas", or local meat pies. There are many, many options, as far as places to eat are concerned. I already said that last night we had dinner for all of 9 dollars. It included 3 "empanadas", a local stew, a large bottle of beer and some mineral water. The local mineral water is called Palau and it is very good. I also had for dessert a local plate called "quesillo con miel de caña" (cheese with cane honey). If you have a sweet tooth, you should not miss this. I have not been able to get it in Buenos Aires and I may have it here very day.

Forum member GIENA, who is a local guide, is picking us up in less than two hours, to take us to Cachi, one of several places favored by tourists.

Well, more later on what we did on Saturday, Sunday and today.

You'll have a great time in "Salta la linda"!!!!!

New York City
posts: 563
reviews: 2
3. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Av:

Thank you for the wonderful travelogue. I am looking forward to more narrative and wry observations about life as you see it.

Travel safely,

Tio Pepe ;-)

Abilene, Texas
Destination Expert
for Buenos Aires
posts: 7,050
reviews: 64
4. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Interesting read, AV. Keep the posts coming! I have never been to the Salta area, but it is on my "to go" list.....

Calhoun, Georgia
posts: 5,768
reviews: 26
5. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

AV

Buen viaje! It has been 100 F here in Georgia. I am enjoying your posts. Salta sounds like our kind of place. I especially like the part about being frozen in time.

North Carolina
posts: 1,427
reviews: 303
6. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Wonderful trip report, AVRooster. Keep it coming!

Argentina
posts: 3,172
reviews: 23
7. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Forum people: do not miss next chapter! AV would not do that wioth dogs` gifts in BA streets...

Giena

durham nc
posts: 82
reviews: 2
8. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Enjoyed reading your report. Travel safely.

Buenos Aires...
posts: 4,147
reviews: 3
9. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

Hi, future travelers to "Salta la linda"!!!!

Well, yesterday I met Angie (forum member Giena/Angie, same person, get it?). She's quite a lady, as I expected!!! LOL!!! I even taught her what LOL, IMO, IMHO, ROTFLMAO and URL mean!!! Double LOL!!!

Angie is a Salta local guide, who works independently, which, the way I see it, is a preliminary indication that she is probably quite good. Obviously, she does not get a salary, as she is self employed.

Therefore, her future income is directly dependent on the satisfaction of her customers and word-of-mouth referrals, which is great for the customers!

As far as I am concerned, she is this forum's unofficial Salta local expert!!! Sometimes, it may take her a while to answer questions, as she does not have a computer at home and is often away on overnight tours, but she should eventually answer them, as soon as she can.

If you have a question about Salta for her, it would save her time if you mention her screen name (Giena) or, at least, mention Salta, so she does not have to look at all the posts, using instead the search feature under the green bar.

She also posts in Fodor's, calling herself "Flinstones". I have encouraged her to start her own web page, post more frequently and even join in our banter, should time permit (not likely).

We (my wife and yours truly) took a tour to Cachi (over 100 miles away from Salta, much of it over unpaved mountain roads) with her in her car and had a great time, besides the amazing scenery and the REALLY "frozen in time" town of Cachi.

But I will post about that tour after I have reported about María Livia (Saturday) and Cafayate (Sunday) parts of my trip. Right now, I have a plane to catch, which is over three hours late, BTW!!!!

To REALLY whet your appetite, I'll bet you wonder what she means when she says above: "AV would not do that with dogs` gifts in BA streets...". Well, you won't know until I get around to telling you all about it!! LOL!!!

You'll have a great time in "Salta la linda", as I did!!!

Argentina
posts: 3,172
reviews: 23
10. Re: A "porteño" and his skeptical self in "Salta la linda".

After the spiritual excurssion in Salta and being a scout in the route, avrooster won the path to heaven...LOL!

Giena