We have just returned from a week on board the MS Terramar, and I can honestly say this was one of, if not the, most amazing things I have ever done. The boat is very small in comparison to most of the others, and is, IMHO better for it. The staff are superb, the food is great (but not brilliant) and the Egyptian people, for the most part, open and friendly (although they will still con you for every last penny you have if they can get away with it!) Our Egyptologist, Amir, was the best tour guide we have ever had, and because there were only 8 of us in our group the tours were personal and he was able to answer all questions fully without being interrupted, or pushed for time. His obvious passion for his country and it's history made it all the more interesting, combined with his excellent English and sense of humour. The Terramar only had 16 people on in total, which was wonderful for us, but not so good for the crew and staff, as I understand they rely quite heavily on the generosity of guests' tips at the end of their week. Whilst it is not good for the Egyptian tourist trade at the moment it is brilliant for those of us who go because it is relatively quiet and the tombs and temples are not crowded. I expected much more hassle than we actually got, and as I quite enjoy haggling, managed to get a few bargains from the souk in Aswan and from some of the vendors at Abu Simbel. (although it's all relative, and whilst I felt it was a good bargain they were probably laughing at my back all the way down the street!) We did everything we could, including the Karnak sound and light show (cheesy but great) the trip to Abu Simbel and the hot air balloon flight (out of this world). The hygene on board our little boat was excellent, the cabins were kept spotless and the service excellent. I think it is very sad that Thomas Cook are pulling out of Luxor, and hope this will not affect this little gem of a boat. It would be very sad to see it in the dry dock along with all the others we passed whilst sailing down the Nile in this amazing and enigmatic country.