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A magical holiday

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Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
A magical holiday

We returned from Marrakech on friday after a fantastic holiday made better due to all the help, advice and information i gained from trip advisor so i wanted to share a little of our experiences with you as a thank you and also to help others that may be about to embark on their adventure.

I have so much i want to share that i will need to add to this post in stages to allow me to remember it all and also so i don't loose anything half way through me typing..

I booked the holiday 10 months in advance and what started off as a 3 day city break turned into a 5 day holiday. I was really unsure how long we needed so added the extra days on as a just incase which I'm glad we did. Knowing what i know now 3 days is certainly enough if you want to see the must see sights from any decent guide book, 5 days is perfect to see the sights, take an excursion and have a bit of relaxing time in between but if you fall in love with Marrakech just as we have then any holiday whatever the length is simply not enough... We did not want to come home.

Before the trip i wasn't expecting to like the country, the food or the people but still was looking forward to visit as i wanted to experience a different culture. After the trip i loved the country, enjoyed the food and found the people to be friendly and warm hearted, i was wrong to pre judge and am so glad i opened my heart to the country and let it draw me in.

We stayed in Riad Kniza which although not cheap was an amazing place to stay (hotel review i still need to do on this place) after much research i decided on a riad due to the location within the city walls and i hoped by going for a riad we would see some more authentic streets and a bit more of the real Marrakech which i feel we did by our choice of location. The transfers from the airport were included in with our riad costs so we were picked up at the airport by a man holding a card with the riad name and our names on it, this alone excited me as I've always just booked a package deal and been collected with a coach load of other tourists for the drop offs at numerous other hotels.

The airport was only a 20 minute drive away and we were taken straight to the edge of a street where someone from the riad reception met us and took our bags, then we began to follow them the 5 minute walk to the riad ...

The 5 minute walk was a fantastic eye opener to the city, Zig zagging in and out the tight streets trying to avoid the mopeds, donkeys, bicycles and men pulling carts all heading our way. Smells of spices filled the air, with fantastic bustling street sellers and locals buying their vegetables and meats from tiny little shops. I kept my eye on the man that had come to greet us and tried to keep up while letting my senses take in everything i was witnessing. I kept thinking of the advice i had read to let all the mopeds and donkeys avoid me rather than trying to avoid them and so as i started to walk like the locals and just get on with it and let people go around me instead the short trek seemed to go much smoother and i relaxed more.

We arrived at a big wooden door and it creaked open to a huge welcome from the staff. Stepping inside was magical, a smell of jasmine filled the air, soft music flowed through the tiled courtyard and the fountain in the centre could be heard flowing gently while the rose petals strewn within it gave out a fantastic splash of vivid colour. Mint tea and morroccan pastries were given to us before being shown to our room which was everything i could have wished for and more, cushions and fabrics in rich colours more suited to royalty filled the room with stunning lanterns providing a wonderful romantic feel. Rose petals were strewn everywhere and we felt like we had stepped into another world.

I had pre booked a hamman and massage for the night of our arrival at the riad as i knew we were arriving late and didnt want to venture out into the unknown on our first night. Before arriving i had researched the hamman and decided i wanted one but was not brave enough to use a local hamman not knowing what to expect and also i wanted my husband with me so the choice at the riad seemed sensible. The hamman was lovely as was the massage and we both thoroughly enjoyed it and it made us relax after a day of travel but knowing what i know now i would not recommend the hamman at the riad, although nice it was over priced and later during our stay i had a more traditional hamman which was much better although i didnt quite manage to visit a public one but this is most definitely on the to do list for next time.

So our first night over having already experienced in just a few hours more than i had seen in a lifetime we drifted off to sleep full of excitement for our next morning

61 replies to this topic
Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
1. Re: A magical holiday

Day 1

After a wonderful breakfast of pastries, fruit, cereals and pancakes i had to decide what to wear before venturing out. Before arrival this had caused me a headache as like most westerners normally on holiday i am a shorts and vest top girl all the way to keep cool but the research all said show some respect, don't show chest, upper arms, lower legs etc so i had been shopping and bought lightweight tops and linen trousers to keep covered but i was dreading getting hot and sweaty and i had only covered my upper arms and was this enough i wondered or would i get spat at in the streets?? I need not have worried, people were wearing anything and everything, some were totally covered up, some in between like me and others were shorts and string vest tops all the way although those in the last category were a minority and did stand out more. The clothes i had bought actually kept me cool and were really comfortable they also saved me money on sun lotion being covered up! On the very last day i ventured out in a vest top with thicker straps as it was so hot and most of my other clothes were dirty, everyone was fine with me and i had no trouble but i was aware that men looked at me more than they had the other days, this didn't bother me and it may have just been in my head because i was aware i was showing more than i should have been but still i felt more uncomfortable than i had the other days due to the attention and so vowed to keep the light loose layers on for next time. My advice would be to take light loose layers but not to worry too much as most people are accepting. Providing you show some respect and dont blatantly have your boobs and mid drift on show then you shouldn't have any problems... Also flat shoes all they way, the streets are not for heels.

We had a half day guided tour booked through the riad so met our wonderful guide ready to do some exploring. We went to Havana a few years ago and that was the first time we hired a private guide and realised we got to see and learn so much more that now any holiday we go on we just have a half day private tour on the first day of the holiday to set us in good stead.

With the guide we got to explore the streets, find out some of the history, walked through the souks, went to Medersa Ben Youssef and ended in the main square Jemaa El Fna ready for a much needed drink.

That first morning just wowed us and we couldn't wait to start exploring alone, no one approached us when we were with the guide but i had taken note of how people were with others around us and realised that the advice i had ready for many things on this forum is very true.. You have to go with the flow and everything comes naturally. We love to take photographs so were snapping away at everything but made sure we did not aim the camera at any individual person. This seemed to work well and anyone that could then see us with the camera but did not want to be part of that street picture seemed to just move to the side. There was one lady who covered her face when she saw the camera so i put it down straight away and apologised, i wanted to be respectful after all and she seemed to appreciate this and thanked me.

The atmosphere whilst walking round was simply amazing but we were tired now and so decided to head back to the riad for an afternoon nap away from the heat of the sun and to recharge our batteries ready for the evening ahead which we were determined to spend at the night market that we had heard and read so much about

Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
2. Re: A magical holiday

Day 1 continued...

Refreshed after our afternoon nap we were ready to venture out and see just how this main square transformed for the night market. We easily found are own way to the main square which was about a 20 minute walk away but we enjoyed the walking so much as every street had different sights and sounds to absorb.

We wanted to get some photos from one of the roof terraces as we had see in the guide books so went to Cafe Glacier as this was next to us. As soon as we reached the terrace we were ordered to buy drinks before we could enter, they were 30DH each which seemed a little excessive but still we wanted that view for our photos so paid up. It was rammed on the roof terrace and there were no empty tables so we ended up asking to share a table and gradually waited until those people moved on at which point we got to the front of the balconies and were able to see properly. We ended up staying here for almost 2 hours just watching the world go by and enjoying every minute of it. We got some great photos of the sun setting and loved the atmosphere. Gradually the square changed to a buzzing night market beneath a hanging cloud of smoke rising from the pop up restaurants, smells of Morrocan cuisine waft around and sounds of drums, singing, musical instruments filling the air and turning Jemaa El Dna into a spectacular place.

We finally ventured down ready to eat and decide which of these pop up restaurants was going to be tempting us in. Now i have to tell you at this point that my husband will eat anything but i am the fussiest eater around. I dont eat rice, pasta, spices, any sauces, fish, fruit, vegetables... The list is endless.

After entering the area where these restaurants are there is no escape until you fill your tummy at at least one of these places. After numerous men trying to persuade us to eat at there stall and everyone of these men has the gift of the gab... air conditioned, swimming pool, lovely jubly, no horse meat here, Jamie Oliver's restaurant, Gorden Ramsey trained chef.. each one had us laughing... we finally realised that nearly every stall has the same food and they are nearly all the same prices so we just sat down at one. I ordered chicken kebabs and chips thinking i couldn't go wrong with chicken but it came yellow which to me and my fussy mouth meant spices but i tried some and loved it, very tasty and this set the scene for the eating the rest of the week, for the first time at 33 years old i was trying new dishes and actually liking them! Along with our meals came numerous other dishes we did not ask for bread, olives, chilli sauce, aubergines... Thanks to trip adviser again i had ready that though you haven't asked for these they charge for them so do not touch them unless you are prepared to pay, we had the bread, sauce and aubergines knowing we were paying. The food was all cooked fresh in front of us, prices were displayed clearly on the menus, the food was brilliant for choice and taste, was quick and because of the setting it was a great atmosphere. Total cost of our bill came to 150DH with drinks which we found to be a great price and were very satisfied. Both parties next to us queried the number of items on their bills and were a little shocked at the prices as of course they didnt know about the charges for the extra plates, i had a cheeky smile at this point glad that i had done my research.

Full up now and tired again we decided to head back to the riad and leave watching the entertainers for another night now to find our way back... We just aimed in what we thought was the right direction and walked, we ended up getting lost a bit and walked the long way round but eventually found our way back and even down those dark alleyways we never once felt unsafe.. I was falling in love more and more with this city....

3. Re: A magical holiday

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Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
4. Re: A magical holiday

Day 2

Today was the day of our excursion!

We were leaving Marrakech for the night to go to the Atlas mountains and return the next day. This was arranged again thanks to trip advisor, i had previously asked about dessert trips, seaside or Mountains and we decided we can see the sea anywhere but not mountains.

We had booked 1 night at Kasbah Du Toubkal , again not cheap but was certainly an experience (hotel review to follow at a later date on this one too)

Transfers we found to be expensive 80euros but i had asked on here and got 4 separate prices from separate places and all seemed aimed at the tourist and were within 10 euros of each other. After reading about some terrible transfers where people got to to shops they didn't want to go to and time wasted aimlessly while people tried to sell them things we decided to pay the money and let the riad arrange it for us in the safe knowledge we got to go where we wanted when we wanted.

We left at 10 am and stopped a few times on route to do the touristy things like ride camels, see the argon oil being made (and buy), see Richard Branson's hotel and see some beautiful berber villages like Tahanoute. The trip there was interesting and we had lots to see and do, i was glad i wasn't on one of the many coaches or packs of 4x4s we saw going by and were doing what we wanted in our time. It was great to see Moroccans also enjoying their days picnicking at the side of the rivers and children playing.

We arrived in Imlil to breathtaking views, lush greenery against red clay buildings and snow capped mountains. The trek to the kasbah was exhausting in the heat but cars could not make it up there so out luggage was carried on a donkey and although only a 15 minute walk we were almost ready to drop by the time we got there.

Food was fab at this place which is just as well as once up there you have no other choices about places to eat, the kasbah is open to day visitors too but once these had gone and it settled down to guests only it was such a relaxing atmosphere and a beautiful place to be. The houses, textiles, decor and people were so different to what we had seen in Marrakech and this place also does a lot of charity work for the berber community and it was great to learn about this. Dinner was by candlelight which was magical and i tried my first ever tagine which was delicious. Food like the rooms was pricey and probably i wouldn't pay it again but i enjoyed what we did and feel we made a good choice all the same so have no regrets.

We arranged a 4 hour trek through the mountains the next day which i was worried about as the most walking i do is a 20 minute dog walk every day but we felt if we didnt do some walking then we would miss out on many sights and experiences. They had a 45 minute, 4 hours, 1 day, 2 days or 1 weeks treks all available.

The guide, a young berber boy was lovely, he went at our pace which was very slow and once we got to know him we laughed along the way, he told us about the community, his family and how the locals respect the kasbah and us tourists that stayed there as we were contributing to a better life for them. Apparently recently an ambulance was bought for the village and the kasbah pays for girls to be educated.

In honesty the walk was too much for us. By 3 hours we had had enough and were aching and tired. My legs were killing and i felt we had seen enough pretty views to last a life time, others we spoke to said the 4 hour wasn't enough so its all down to personal choice. Again we got some fantastic photos and the sights were great, i felt a great sense of achievement that as a unfit overweight person i had walked that far and i was very proud! We followed the walk up with a hamman which was a DIY job, they heated it up for us and we went in alone with everything laid out for us. This one was free, more relaxing and a much better authentic experience that the riad hamman. It eased our achy legs and despite the fact i was in a concrete steam room with plastic buckets it was great as a couple to experience the thick black gunk being spread over us, rubbed down and we ended it with a not so authentic water fight while helping to wash each other off!

Time was now up, the driver collected us at the agreed time and took us straight back to Marrakech ready for a meal at the riad tonight which apparently was good but expensive. We felt we needed to eat a posh meal at least once to compare to the street restaurants and also i had pulled a muscle on the almighty trek we did so the last thing i wanted was to walk around the streets again.

I will keep it short about the meal as this will go on my riad review but it was perfect, brilliant atmosphere, nothing too much trouble, 7 scrumptious courses with alcohol if required and all very tasty with exceptional service!

Back to our room to find the maid had took all the cushions off the bed and was beating the pillows and mattress and folding the sheets back to prepare the bed for sleep! Apparently they prepare the beds in the morning with numerous velvet blankets, pillows, drapes to look good then remove them all, air the sheets and beat/plump everything up to make sure we get the perfect nights sleep... Which we certainly did

Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
5. Re: A magical holiday

Just realised i included day 3 in with day 2 so now onto day 4!

Time to explore Marrakech!

First stop Badii Palace, arrive early the reviews and books say as it gets hot and crowded so we did! We arrived by 9 and it was empty, we had the place all to ourselves and got some great photos, not much to see and i would have got bored if we stayed too long but im glad we saw it all the same and it was another tick off the must see list. I was more enchanted watching the storks nesting on the top, we sat and had a drink in a nearby cafe to watch them which was wonderful.

Next stop the Saadian Tombs, these were busy and not that interesting but again im glad i saw them, another tick off the to do list and a few photos. Onto Bahia palace which i had similar thoughts on, none of these places were bad, good sights and worth a few pictures but you don't need to spent much time at any of them.

Now for the exciting bit... The souks, i actually wanted to get lost in them as the deeper and deeper you went the more you saw and the more exciting and enchanting it became. I just loved the souks, amazing bright colours, you can buy almost anything at any price, see everything being made by hand, wonderful craftsmanship, fantastic shopping experience! I was determined not to buy until i had seen a lot and had watched others haggling.

Hello lady, hello flower, hello lucky man, please come and take a look, good price for you, best price, asda price, just looking no buy no problem, come in come in.... Just wow!

Eventually i decided to buy and we came back with a morrocan brass lantern, an old tile, a ceramic fruit bowl and cushion covers made from carpets. I love all this stuff its quality made and not cheap tat although there is some cheap tat in the souks so i guess it depends what your willing to pay for the quality you get.

The haggling came easy despite me worrying and dreading it. Thanks to trip advisor again i took the advise and decided what i wanted to pay and stuck to it. The prices we were told were extortiantly high so we went in low eventually we met around about the middle or a little lower towards our price. They key is defiantly to stick to the price and walk away if they ain't dropping that low, there is so much stuff you will almost certainly find something similar around the corner. The colours, textures and authenticity just drew me in my purchases will definately take pride of place back in the UK.

Looking back i realise i have paid roughly the price i would have paid in the UK for these purchases, they were not cheaper than say for example your average fruit bowl however if i had of wanted to buy a Morrocan fruit bowl in the UK then im sure it would have cost double what i paid.

The lantern was my biggest buy, i asked on average what i should be paying for a lantern. What i didnt know is that there is no price as these beautiful lanterns are not just any old lantern, apparently it depends on the metal and the designer and maker, how intricate the design is and so on, i was told this by the riad not the seller so they were not on the selling talk, i went in the ensemble artisanal to see the fixed prices and knew then that they were going to cost more that i thought, i did eventually get one i loved for much less but it was still expensive but its a memory of a great trip too and what price can to put on memories??

My husband insists i probably could have got 20-30 DH cheaper if i haggled harder and he is probably right but i was also conscious that i didn't want to waste too much time haggling so when i got bored i just went in and said this is the most I'm paying is it a deal or not, i must have seemed quite sure as they all stopped haggling at that price and agreed but to be fair i was quite sure and was willing to walk away

Im already regretting not buying a carpet/rug as there were so many fantastic ones to choose from but how would i get the size and weight home? Im already figuring that one out for next time...

Tip - we knew we were buying so booked on an extra bag on the way back only and put it flat in the suitcase, we also took bubble wrap with us which we were glad of as it meant the breakables got back in 1 piece.

The evening and night of day 4 is for another post... To be continued

Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
6. Re: A magical holiday

Im sorry but i do not have time to finish my trip report off now so will try to finish it over the next few days.

Still to come - money, hassles, spice markets, night life, gardens, taxi drives, caleches, young tour guides, to do or not to do tanneries?, trying to find the same place twice, butchers...

marrakech
Destination Expert
for Morocco
posts: 6,866
reviews: 60
7. Re: A magical holiday

Hi,

You are doing a fabulous job. I'm so glad you got so much from the forum before your visit, took the advice and opinions available and that they helped you enjoy your stay.

Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your holiday.

Thornton Cleveleys...
Destination Expert
for Marrakech
posts: 599
reviews: 22
8. Re: A magical holiday

I am absolutely loving your report - thank you so much for taking the time to write it and share it with us. It gives a real sense of both the Morocco that you encountered and your own excitement. Wonderful.

You can quite rightly feel a bit smug that you did your research because it obvously paid off very well!

Looking forward to reading the rest and I am so glad that you had such a good time.

Sheffield, United...
posts: 1,291
reviews: 20
9. Re: A magical holiday

Please don't leave us in suspense too long..... Your trip report is a a better read than my book!! Thank so much for sharing it with us.

Tamworth, United...
posts: 59
reviews: 39
10. Re: A magical holiday

Im back, sorry about the delay but first day back at work after a holiday is not good!

Thanks for the comments much appreciated that you have taken the time to read it.

Right day 4 continued...

The main thing i still had in my head was the wonderful experience of the evening we had spent over looking the main square and i felt like we hadn't yet seen all the riches that it had to offer, i had read the books about the snake charmers, musicians and story tellers and i was eager to see it with my own eyes although quite nervous too as i knew that this would be the time and place we were likely to get hassled the most.

We decided to get a taxi to the main square this time as we had done enough walking, we asked at the riad what we should be paying and they said at the very most 30DH if not less so we go to the end of the street and wait and wait but no taxi arrives. I start to watch and realise the taxi drivers do not actually seem to be stopping they are waiting to be hailed, so i shoot out my arm (thinking this is what happens in New York on TV) and hailed a cab, success immediately, 2 stop and appeared to be arguing over us, i guess tourists equals money when it comes to passengers. I had said to my husband we must ask the driver to turn on the meter or agree a price first and i proceeded to tell him of some of the horror stories i had ready about taxis costing more than a night in a hotel or the price suddenly going up on arrival with the driver saying they had misheard, anyway cab pulls over and hubby says where we want to go and starts to get in, at this point i had to pull him back, had he not been listening to the stories i had just told him?? So we asked a price - 60DH, no we said and offered him 20DH, no he said and wanted 50DH so we then said 30DH at the most or we get another taxi... He agreed at that point. I am glad i got a rough price first from the riad as probably would have paid 50DH. The taxi ride was scary, i wondered if this was like some kind of video game that the driver was not very good at - i mean he was very close to hitting pedestrians, other cars, motorcyclists etc but was just missing them and i wondered if thats how you got the points if this was a game?? Plenty of horn beeping going on all around but amazingly we arrived in one piece even if the driver scored 0 points for not hitting any objects this time!

We were dropped off right outside the towering Koutoubia mosque and though not a religious person myself once the hypnotic call of the prayer started to echo across the city i was simply in awe at what beautiful sounds i was hearing and by the end of our visit i found a deep respect for the muslim people and their religion that was a million miles away from the bigoted view i had before visiting this wonderful city.

Whilst i stood and waited for my husband to take photos a group of 4 ladies sat on a bench invited me to sit in between which i did, they were all in traditional bright clothing and to see my husbands face when he turned around to look for me and found me sat there in the middle was very funny, he was holding his camera and was just desperate to take a photo but he knew it was a definite no no as pointing a camera at 4 local women who had let his wife sit down was not going to go down well!

The mosque really is a must see and worthy of any holiday snapshot as it towers above the square of Jemaa El Fna and is a central point in the city, i also recommend seeing it in the dark as it looks spectacular when lit up.

We were approached on the roadside by the owners of the caleches (horse and carts) and decided on a trip around the city walls as we hadn't seen many of the gates and the guide book told us these were a must see, i will keep this one short but basically it bored me a little, there was one gate Bab Agnaou which was beautiful but i found i preferred the sights within the city walls rather than going slowly in and out of traffic pulled along by a horse! Also i found it quite expensive, this i wouldn't do again but then i saw others enjoying seeing the sights and relaxing so i guess this is personal preference.

Finally it was time for the night market both excited at what we would see and dreading the hassle we were likely to get we decided it was time for an action plan ... Firstly we knew we wanted photos of these entertainers and if we wanted photos we were going to have to pay for it and rightly so, at the end of the day this is how they are earning a wage and they have put the effort in to get dressed up, come out in the night and entertain! The plan was to get as much loose change as possible and to put it in our pockets so that when we gave a tip for a photo or for being entertained we could just hand over a few coins without looking and knowing it wasn't too much, also i felt it was safer not to be getting out any purses or wallets with cash in at this time of night in a square so crowded. We knew that whatever we handed over wasn't going to be enough, we knew they would ask for more and we also knew from others experiences that there was a chance people could get aggressive so let the battle commence - Loose change in pockets, camera on and at the ready, i was to talk to the people and be interested in what they had to offer while hubby took the photos, stick together as a team no splitting up, be firm but fair, back each other up, be ready to walk off quickly if required and don't look back ...

All i can say is wow, what a memorable night this turned out to be...

Ladies and Gentleman, get ready to be bewitched by the most amazing sights, sounds and experiences of the most amazing outdoor theatrical performance you are ever likely to see!

The black of the night sky is lit up by hundreds of pop up restaurants, with smoke and smells billowing from from each of them as everyone tucks into Moroccan cuisine, there are musicians beating drums and shaking other metal instruments (sorry no good at instrument names unless its a drum or guitar!), snake charmers, story tellers, henna ladies, dancers, acrobats, fortune tellers, water sellers, teeth (yes teeth) sellers, beggars, dancing monkeys... The list is endless, there really is something that everyone will love but also there will doubtless be something that everyone will hate too (in my case the monkeys, i find this a cruel practice and so blatantly ignored these people)

Stop one was the water sellers, great photo opportunity but one man soon turned into 3 and of course they all wanted money, suddenly i was pushed to one side as the 3 of them cornered by husband and demanded notes not coins! I caught onto what they were doing straight away and pushed back in, linked arms with my husband as he handed them some change and we walked on ignoring their pleas for more money. This reminded me that we were strong and didn't let it affect us but how would someone alone and scared act, would they just hand over more money?

Stop 2 was the snake charmers, we wanted one photo but ended up being dragged in to hold snakes and encouraged to take more photos more photos more photos, i got fed up in the end as the one man wouldn't leave me alone, after politely saying no thank you 3 times i eventually sternly turned round and said NO! Again we reached into out pockets to hand over some change but this time they decided to tell us a price for their few minutes of entertainment 300 DH yes 300 DH!!! Well my husbands laugh said it all, we laughed along with them (or at them) and played along as if it was a joke and handed over some coins, we had known from the start whatever we paid would not be enough but we continued with the self discipline and smiled as we walked away thanking them for the opportunity.

Next we decided to have a look at what a crowd of locals were looking at, they were stood in a circle and i could see they were listening to a band playing some great music, unfortunately for us and for them the minute we joined the crowds they spotted us against the locals and came over immediately demanding money, they didn't ask anyone else in the crowd for money just singled us out as the rich tourists! This was such a shame as i could of happily stood there listening to the delights they had to offer and then had they gone round the crowds with a hat asking for donations i would most definitely have put money in probably a decent amount as they were so good but instead there forcefulness and aggression made us turn and walk away angrily meaning they didn't get a penny!

As we were walking away i got accosted by a henna lady, i had probably been asked 20 times if i wanted henna in the square that night but had declined with a smile and thank you each time, this lady was different she got up and followed me closely, immediately i remembered reading that sometimes they grab your hand and put henna on before you have a chance to say no and then demand money, i pulled my arm in closer aware of what she was going to do, what i didn't realise is that my hubby had also caught onto what was coming and he wasn't going to give her the slightest chance, he turned right round to face her and sternly (as in the most sternly i have ever heard him speak in the 10 years we have been together) told her NO! Well she certainly got the message and backed off quickly.

It may appear i am only telling you the bad things here but i really believe that by knowing what can happen like we did, you can anticipate it and knock it on the head before it becomes and issue or ruins your holiday. For every 1 entertainer that hassled us there was also an entertainer that was amazing, friendly and was grateful for just the attention they were getting and any amount of small coins. The music drifting across the square was simply wonderful and even now back in the UK i can close my eyes and almost hear the beats which puts a big smile on my face.

We ate again at one of the stalls that night, a different stall picked simply because the food looked nice and Fresh but to be fair they nearly all did, once again the food was great and cheap

We caught a taxi back that night after a wonderful experience, we talked about the sights and sounds, laughed about being asked to pay 300DH for a photo of a snake. The atmosphere across the city that night was extraordinary and will certainly take some beating as being the most spectacular display i have seen in my life!

Our last day - Day 5 will have to be continued another time