Don't believe all you read, the airport has changed radically and is now little different to any other international destination.
Arrival was smooth, and although we only had hand luggage, we were stood in the arrivals hall within 20 minutes of landing.
Plenty of services; free clean toilets, cafe's, shops, car hire, cash machines, bureau de change etc etc.
Transfers from the Airport to the City are easy, No 19 bus leaves from outside the terminal building and winds it's way around the majority of the major hotels and ends up adjacent to the main square. Cost 30 dhms one way. Alternatively plenty of Grande and Petit Taxis (we paid 60dhms in a petit taxi from the main square back to the Airport) The return bus journey also passes the front of the Railway Station on it's way back to the Airport.
Departure was just as smooth just like any international Airport however, a few things to be aware of:
1 The Duty free shops will NOT accept Dirhams, only euros, you can pay by credit/debit card.
2 You are NOT permitted to bring Dirhams out of the country.
3 In order to change Dirhams in to your own currency you need to prove that you own it, we had to show passport, receipt from cash machine and bank card. We also asked for Sterling but there was insufficient. We ended up with Euros. The Exchange Rate was not favourable.
IN SHORT, HAVE ENOUGH DIRHAMS TO GET YOU TO THE AIRPORT AND NO MORE. GET INTO DEPARTURES AND THEN USE EUROS OR PLASTIC.
Departures Lounge has all the facilities you need, cafe's, shops, duty free etc. We flew out around 8pm and the Duty Frees shut while we were waiting to board.