Hi Stubbs. Have fun on the 'Ledgendary Ghan'. We did the trip last November and no one ever said just 'Ghan', it was always the 'Ledgendary Ghan'. Well worth it.
We self-drove from Alice to Uluru. We actually rented a 4WD camper and spent 4 days driving an camping along the way, which was a great way to see the Red Centre -cheap also. If you know you have reservations in the Resort, I'd drive. You can drive in one day from Alice to the Resort and then you have the freedom to drive where and when you want instead of being crowded on a bus. I also recommed the only aborigine owned tour group, Anagou Tours. You can sign up at the cultural center or go on the web. (http://www.anangutours.com.au/)