We took the train from Pisa to Viareggio for a day trip recently. The train was fast and cheap. The beach was a bit of a walk from the train station, but not too far. We had a look at a few of the bagni and chose Bertucelli as it seemed family friendly. It was lovely. As it was a weekday, it was not at all crowded and the fee was very reasonable. We were able to get an umbrella and chairs close to the water. There were bathrooms, indoor and outdoor showers and a changing room available, as well as a cafe/bar. The younger woman in charge spoke English and was so nice, even though we were just day visitors. We are accustomed to frigid ocean temperatures where we live, even in summer. The water here was SO WARM! I did not want to leave. The only negative thing about the beach was the endless parade of men selling cheap trinkets. Not 5 minutes went by without someone approaching us. I didn't see anyone actually buy from these guys all day. The bagni are supposed to be private but these guys just stroll
from one to another, why does no one keep them out? Other than that, it was a great day, a relaxing break from our hectic schedule and a cooling respite from the intense heat.