My partner Darren and I were in Rome for a total of 8 days (we had a strange itinerary - 3 days and 5 days, with a week in Egypt in between) and loved it. I won't give a blow-by-blow account but give a response to or opinion on some of the things that are often discussed on these forums, in no particular order:
Accommodation: We stayed in two b&bs - first Arco del Lauro in Trastevere and then Il Colle degli Ulivi in Zagarolo. I will review them separately, and here just say that Il Colle degli Ulivi SO deserves to be listed on the Rome pages where people can find it - it is wonderful.
Food: We took with us, as well as our guidebooks, a huge list of TA recommended restaurants. Unfortunately both of us were unwell, at different times, with the result that we only had "proper" dinners out on four nights - what a waste! These were at Le mani in Pasta in Trastevere, twice at Il Giardino in Zagarolo and dinner cooked by Ivano at Il Colle degli Ulivi, and all were fabulous (thank goodness - it would have been too sad to waste any of only four dinners in Rome!). We also had a great lunch at Ristorante Giggetto and wonderful takeaway cut pizza from Fior Fiore and Il Forno. Apart from that a couple of unremarkable (not bad) lunches. We were only ripped off once, and only Darren, as I wasn't eating. This was at Ristorante Comparone just near Il Arco del Lauro - avoid it - they don't deserve your business. We didn't get around to having gelato until the last night (!) and it was fantastic! I won't be waiting until the last night next time.
Cappuccino: I don't care that Italians don't drink cappuccino after breakfast time - it was so wonderful in Rome that I drank it whenever I had the opportunity, including after dinner. I can handle being considered uncouth. The cheapest, by the way, was at the airport - it's not often you get anything cheap at an airport!
Overnight trains: We caught the overnight train from Paris to Rome. We had a first class sleeper cabin and it was pretty awful, mainly because the heating couldn't be turned off, and at the lowest possible setting it was still way too hot to sleep. With the window open it was cooler but too loud to sleep. The dinner was quite nice but very expensive (predictably). We caught overnight trains in Egypt and they were much better, and dinner was included.
Friendly/unfriendly Italians: Darren had been warned by his father never to go to Italy as the people were so rude and unhelpful. Things didn't start so well in this regard. The conductor on the train was the first Italian we came into contact with and he was extremely rude. When we arrived at the train I spoke to him in French (well, we were in Paris) and he barked, "Ticket!" in English. This was pretty much all he said except "Coffee!" when he brought it in the morning and "No!" when we asked if he could help fold the bed up so that we could sit instead of lying down for the last hours of the journey (the train didn't arrive in Rome until after 10 in the morning). The waiter at the first restaurant we went to in Rome was also rude. After these early encounters everyone we spoke to was friendly and helpful. We usually began any exchanges in our very very limited Italian and people immediately switched to English (no wonder). On several occasions people on the street helped us when they really didn't have to. Myth busted!
Termini station: While it is very large, we didn't find it at all intimidating and certainly didn't feel like we were in danger. Don't be frightened of it!
Pickpockets: We didn't have our pockets picked! Or see any evidence of others having this problem. Perhaps because it was so quiet, which brings me to...
Travelling in January: The most wonderful time of the year to travel. No queues anywhere. Perfect weather - cool to cold at times but dry and great for walking and doing other touristy stuff.
Guide books: "Rome with Kids" by JM Pasquesi was wonderful, and we weren't with kids! The best guidebook we had, it gave good tips on how to see the highlights without suffering museum fatigue. Lonely Planet Rome was also pretty good.
Maps: We managed with the various free ones. Next time I would at least consider buying one that has all the little streets as well.
RomaPass and Rome&Piu Pass: We used both of these at different times. Great value. We hardly used the buses but the few times we just wandered and ended up a long way from where we wanted to be next, they were invaluable.
Leonardo Express: Not covered by the Roma&Piu Pass. Extremely easy to catch from the airport to Termini. We bought tickets from an automatic machine that took international credit cards. Nothing to it.
Luggage: The benefits of travelling light cannot be overstated. We each had a backpack with a zip-off daypack. Although we packed light, next time I would make sure it was even lighter.
Clothing and shoes: Don't waste time thinking about them. Wear what is comfortable. You see all sorts of people wearing all sorts of things. I found wearing mostly black worked well for me, and the best thing I took was a black pashmina that I carried in my bag whenever I wasn't wearing it. Very handy.
Eurailpass or similar: Not worth it in Italy. Too many supplements and compulsory reservations.
Highlights: pretty much everything. Especially the Trevi Fountain, the view over the Forum from the Capitoline Museum, the Scavi tour, the Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo, St Peter's, some of the bridges over the Tiber, San Clemente, Santa Maria Maggiore.
Unexpectedly wonderful day: Tivoli, specifically the Villa Adriana and the Villa d'Este. We would never have gone there without the recommendation and help of Terhi from Il Colle degli Ulivi. Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful.
Rome or Paris?: Rome. Never thought I'd say that! I've been to Paris six times and it is always wonderful. This was my first time in Rome and I think it was just that little bit more wonderful.
Of course I could write a lot more, and I would be happy to answer any questions! We also went to Ercolano and Vesuvius - easy enough to do independently, following instructions I found on this forum. Don't hesitate - just go to Rome!
