Having read lots of conflicting views about the market, I decided to go and have a look for myself today.
I thought it was fine. Don't expect to find master crafstmen, but it is not just a long line of stalls selling tourist tat. This are loads of nice food stalls (as well as a few 'sit-down' places), things for kids to do and lots of inexpensive souvenirs, knickknacks, jewelry, hat, scarves, gloves and jumpers, not to mention plenty of purveyors of vin chaud (mulled wine) and Christmas beer. I went during the daytime, when it wasn't too busy, and it was a pleasant way to spend an hour or so.