We went to the Connaught on a Saturday afternoon for a 1430 sitting. For anyone considering it, I think the most important thing to note about tea at the Connaught is that it's a mixture of tradition and modern touches, hence the menu title of "Chic and shock". I'd say it's 70% traditional, but with imaginitive and new additions to a classical afternoon tea menu. I like that, and it tempted me, but others who are set on the long established regular menus might not fancy it. The new additions are as a result of Helene Darroze's personal input, so for a multi-Michelin starred chef, you'd expect some innovation. Anyway... onto the tea.
We were shown to our table in the Esplette dining room, which is a curved room running around the outside of the hotel, offering views over the nice terracotta red brick architecture of the surrounding streets. The setting is lovely, light and airy, with 1920s art deco wooden furniture, beautiful wedgewood crockery, and smartly uniformed staff. Dress code for customers is smart casual, I wore a suit with open necked shirt and felt very much at home as everyone else was dressed quite smartly. A few were edging towards casual in cords and jumpers, but they didn't look out of place either, so no worries about not having a tie.
Orders for tea were taken almost straight away from a selection of twelve choices on the menu. My wife went for Ceylon orange pekoe, I settled on the Royal Connaught afternoon blend and both were excellent. You can switch around as often as you like, so in theory you could try all twelve including some strange choices such as silver needle or pomegranate. As soon as your individual pot is drained, staff notice and are there immediately to bring you a fresh one. I didn't have to ask for service all afternoon as the waiting staff are really attentive and helpful. Sandwiches are served along with the tea, with stickies coming later on. There is initially a plate of 4 types, 2 of each, and you are welcome (or encouraged even) to order more of your favourites after the first plate has gone. On the plate were egg mayonnaise with peppery watercress, cucumber with dill cream, Bellotta ham with tomato, black olive and basil, and finally smoked salmon with wasabi cream. All were lovely but we ordered more ham and salmon sandwiches expecting 2 more of each... and we were promptly brought 4 more of each... too much almost! The wasabi is a fantastic twist with the salmon (according to my wife), and the Bellotta ham is amazing (according to me). I hear it's the most expensive ham in the world. The saltiness works so well with sweet tomato and basil.
Next were the scones, a choice of plain or apricot are provided warm in your basket, along with a very generous pot of the smoothest, silkiest clotted cream I've ever seen along with 4 small pots of jam. (Apricot, cherry, rose, and figs). Again, these were excellent and there was more than enough of everything.
The silver cake tier is brought out along with the scones and is laden with some interesting stuff. The madeleine, pistachio crumble, apricot financier, choux pastry with strawberry jelly, and the raspberry tart were all brilliant... less successful was a strong flavoured rose iced sponge, and an unpleasant chocolate macaron. Probably the only two low notes in the whole experience. All was well again however when we shared our last titbit, a glass of ginger jelly with candied cucumber and apple foam... extremely refreshing and tasty.
The bill came to £35 each with service added on (discretionary at 12.5%) so a little under 80 quid. I think it was well worth it for the experience and I'd certainly go again, but I'm keen to try another of the big players for the next occasion. Overall I'd give the Connaught 9 out of 10 and can highly reccomend it, IF you like to see some innovation in your menu.
Top tip... if you have another £25 or so to burn, retire to the Coburg bar and treat yourself to a nice cocktail to finish off. It's a beautiful little lounge.
