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Mexico City

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Mexico City Forum: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

Kensington...
posts: 72
reviews: 3
 Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long) 

Hey there,

Mexico City was great. So cheap and everyone was very nice and accommodating. When I needed directions all I did was ask and if they didn't know the person took me to someone who did!. It is really a fascinating city with lots of parks and things to do. The place I stayed at was the best B&B/small hotel I have ever been to (The Red Tree House). Very tastefully decorated and beautiful. For a small place with about 18 rooms it never felt crowded and the courtyard makes for a great meeting place. The RTH is in a great neighborhood and you get to meet tons of great people from all over the world. Canada, New Zealand, Australia (3 couples), Sweden and the US were all represented. Breakfast was the time to meet and find out what people were doing and when your finished touring for the day at 5 o'clock the wine comes out and everyone sits around talking until dinner (which is 9 or 10 in Mexico!) Very interesting to hear others viewpoints of our political discussions and disagreements.

B&B was in a great location (3 blocks from tourist bus, metro and high speed bus line). Grocery stores and restaurants blocks away and all sorts of small shops and businesses. Only problem was when coming out of the stations I could not figure out which direction to head. Kind of like leaving the DC Metro by the opposite entrance and finding yourself 2 blocks from where you thought. But it was all good.

I am going to preface this next part with an admission that I have traveled quite a bit. What some people might find troublesome I find to be an adventure. I also have lots of experience in how not to act and what not to do (things you would do when visiting any major city in the US). Friends worried that I would get kidnapped, shot or robbed. Never once did I feel even a twinge of trepidation when walking or taking the bus and metro. Even with my limited Spanish (and there were people at the B&B who spoke no Spanish) most of the time I was able to get my idea across. These are very friendly people who know just how much tourism affects the City.

Times are hard in Mexico since the Swine flu outbreak. Many, many people lost their jobs as tourism ground to a halt for 2 months. All the hotels were empty over the summer and all the restaurants were slow as people stayed home. Now people are trying to figure out how to stay alive as their economy gets back on its feet. They even sell things on the subway cars. At every stop one or two guys would enter and either blast music from a boom-box selling DVD's or walk through the car selling gum, band-aids, cotton balls(?), or anything they could sell

But the hawkers were not very aggressive. You simply said "no gracias" and they left you alone. But they were everywhere! Seemed like if there was an intersection 5 taco stands would pop up overnight and 5 stands selling everything from clothes to cell phones to DVD's (and some really great ties!)

There were markets at every square, park or patch of land big enough for some stands. On Sundays families all spread out at the many parks and spend the day doing just what American families do – play sports, eat and rest on the grass with family. I spent more than a few hours just reading in the nearby parks people watching.

The art market at San Angel on Saturday has really, really good artists and the un-official markets that sprang up around them for blocks carry everything you could imagine. From cheezy toys and tourist stuff to bronze sculpture and jewelry. Saw a sculpture I really, really liked but at 28,000 pesos (~$2,500 US) it was a bit too pricy for me.

The main square in town (the Zocalo) has been a center of the City for centuries. When construction in the late 70’s (?) discovered some ruins they found an ancient temple built right under the city, buried for hundreds of years. They are slowly uncovering the Temple Mayor but it will take several more years. Seems the ancient Mexicans always decided that bigger is better so frequently build over temples again and again. The Temple Mayor has 3 or 4 layers of construction, one over the other. They would even build the same building in the same place but bigger, just filling in the space between the layers with rubble. Once I get the pics up it will be a bit clearer. (I love all the archeology and anthropological stuff!). The great Temple complex at Teotihuacan was built over several times as well fascinating to see all the layers of buildings dating back centuries.

The main city square also contains the Cathedral and Government office for the Mexican State. (Plus Starbucks, Subway, McDonalds etc- Oh well). On Saturday night there is a show that draws thousands. People were showing up 3 hours before the show to get a spot. I showed up on Sunday just as High Mass was beginning. Think clouds of incense and candles all over.

This city is easy to get around and all the public transportation is very, very cheap. Just stay out around rush hour if you are bothered by crowds. As I said before, think Toyko. So crowded that you need to make sure where you stand if you want to get out within a few stops. They have a high speed bus line that runs down Calle Insurgentes that takes you from Condessa to the Zona Rosa in no time. Plus it is only 5 cents! Only problem I had was I wish they had more signs in other languages. The tourist office seems not too concerned with providing English language signs to help. But there is always someone willing to help you out. I bought a bus pass for $50 pesos and then stood there trying to figure out what to do next. Some kind person told me I was all set so I just watched for a bit and did what every one else was doing. It was simple!

Mexico City has everything you expect in a world capital – first class museums, entertainment, shopping and restaurants (ah, the restaurants – yum). In some ways it reminded me of Rome with all the side streets stuffed with small shops and bodegas. There was even a street that had all the high end shops you could ever wish for – Hermes, Cartier, D&G, Chanel, Zegna, etc.

The “Zona Rosa”, the local gay zone, is pleasant and makes a great place to sip coffee and people watch. Even given the cultural differences, I saw lots of couples holding hands and being tender with each other. Lots of tourist shops and antique markets mixed in with restaurants and clubs. For people spending their stay in the Hotel Zone (Marriott, Radisson, etc) or financial district this is their main shopping outlet.

But I highly suggest that people find a way to venture out to different parts of the city. The city center is just like all big metropolises – high rise buildings and corporate offices. You need to venture out to Condessa or Roma or Chapultepec park to really get a feel for a city of this size. 22-24 million people call it home and it shows. Chapultepec is where the Zoo, Anthropology Museum and Castle are located.

Contrary to what you may have heard, central Mexico City is a very clean place. There are literally hundreds of people whose job it is to sweep the streets, parks and sidewalks all over the city. Every morning you would see men or women with rush brooms sweeping the leaves off sidewalks, planting flowers or picking up trash. Washington DC seems like a trash heap compared to Mexico City. Now, I am sure that things might be different out of the tourist and residential zones, but I found the City very clean and tidy.

Well that seems to be enough for now. When I get my pics up I’ll write more.

9 replies
Washington...
posts: 782
reviews: 4
1. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)
Destination Expert   What's this?
for Mexico City

Great report -- you really have an eye for the details that make Mexico City unique.

On a completely unrelated tangent, the detail that makes Mexico City unique for me is the street names. While Washington DC uses relatively boring state names and historical figures to name their streets, Mexico City, in its massive expanse, uses whatever words they can find.

Aside from the streets named after Mexican heros and Mexican states, you will find neighborhoods in Mexico City where all the streets are named after famous doctors, educators, rivers, modernist poets or plants. There is one neighborhood where the streets are named after European capitals, and another where the streets are all named after AMERICAN states (yes, there is a Wisconsin Avenue in both DC and Mexico City -- but the one in Mexico City is spelled "Visconsin".)

But wait, as you get into the outskirts of the city (where they apparently started running out of street names) it gets even more interesting. There is one neighborhood in the east where you will find "Bacteriologists Street", "Metallurgists Street", and "Urologists Street". Closer to downtown, another neighborhood has "Hairstylists Street" and "Gardeners Street". My all-time favorite is the neighborhood where they named the streets after metals in the periodic table of elements. It must be confusing to live in a city where you have to find "Cadmium Street", "Iridium Street", "Radium Street", and "Vanadium Street". There's probably another neighborhood named after the gaseous and organic elements, but I just haven't found it yet.

(I don't have anywhere else to post this monolouge, so I put it here.)

Washington...
posts: 782
reviews: 4
2. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)
Destination Expert   What's this?
for Mexico City

Regarding the economy -- things are tough in Mexico right now, but Mexico has seen worse in the 80s and 90s. The vendors that you saw on the Metro have probably been there since the system's inception (and the ones on the street have been there before Cortes set foot on the New World). It's always fascinating to browse the massive array of merchandise for sale.

Becoming disoriented while leaving the Metro is a problem in both DC and Mexico City. One trick I use in both cities is to pay attention to the metro map and figure out which direction your train is moving in. This will allow you keep a mental note of which way is "north" while you are underground, and once you arrive at the surface, you will easily know which direction to walk.

Queretaro...
posts: 5,207
reviews: 7
3. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)
Destination Expert   What's this?
for Queretaro

I just got back from Mexico City today and wholeheartedly agree with the report! Thanks. There are actually over 90,000 streets according to my map of Mexico City so it's hardly surprising they run out of names :))

On an added note remember that now Mexico City offers free travel insurance to tourists both national and international (so free medical coverage if you get sick). They also have free bicycle hire at strategic points (e.g. in Chapultepec Park).

Mexico City
posts: 582
reviews: 97
4. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)
Destination Expert   What's this?
for Mexico City

Great report Redman. I am glad you enjoyed your trip (and you made it here.) Hurry back soon.

silver spring
posts: 1
5. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

Redman, I really enjoyed your post and had been following your questions prior to travel. you were quite interested in the restaurant scene and i'm wondering what your favorites were.. i'm leaving for mexico city next week . thanks, Chris

B-More
posts: 168
6. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

Nice detailed report. My friends think I'm crazy, but I love Mexico City. It may have been intimidating on my first trip outside the US for Mundial in 1986, but my subsequent visits have been amazing.

Kensington...
posts: 72
reviews: 3
7. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

Hey everyone. I really appreciate all the kind comments. Been a bit late in returning to the site so I apologize. JCS, Happy and Steve: You all are great! without your suggestions and comments all over TA I am sure I would not have been as confident about traveling to Mexico city. I ahve to say that all your posts are informative aand interesting.

90,000 streets seems about right to me! Fortunately I stayed near Amsterdam so when wandering all I had to do was find my way back to Amsterdam and I was home free.

Dr Chris: I never made it to Pujol as my friends invited me out for dinner the one night I had planned to go. They were not interested in Pujol as they thought it would be too expensive. It is now on my must do for the next trip. I did get to a great restaurant called Lampuga (?) on Nuevo Leon in Condessa. Their tuna carpaccio over tostados was divine. I even went back and had it as a dinner one night. Thier is another restaurant down the street called Roxo? that had a good bar for drinks beforehand.

Funniest dinner was trying to order sushi without knowing the Spanish names for fish and no english menu. Thankfully I remembered the Japanese names for some dishes and it all turned out okay. Not my best meal, but it was fun.

For anyone questioning their trip to Mexico City, just forget the media and go! More swine flu here than in Mexico and if you stay sharp you will have no problems.

Melbourne...
posts: 977
reviews: 26
8. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

Great report.

Thanks for sharing.

Just 1 question to start with. How long did it take you to get to the Zocalo from the Red Tree House?

Kensington...
posts: 72
reviews: 3
9. Re: Trip Report - Nov 8 to 11 (long)

I took the tourista bus so it was about an hour. But if you go via the Subway it should onloy take about 20-30 min total from door to door so to speak. Or you can take the high speed bus on Insurgentes and then the subway.

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