when my husband and I parked our car at La Cachora beach and crested the sand dunes, I knew I had seen the most beautiful site on earth. I started swearing and shouting and running around, completely overwhelmed - and there was no one to look at me funny as we had the whole beach to ourselves. Sunset streaked the horizon and we saw 3 BREACHES of humpback whales! Full breaches, not just tail flukes. Now I've worked in Thailand, lived in the UK, kayaked the San Juan Islands (during which the entire J pod of orcas swam under my kayak), backpacked all over Europe, lived in Marin & Los Angeles in California, Whale watched in Santa Barbara, White Water Rafted in Colorado, and most recently learned to SCUBA dive in La Paz, and I've never seen a whale breach before, much less 3 times in 5 minutes.
And to think we almost missed it! We lingered at Tres Gallinas restaurant for 2 hours because it was the best Italian food my husband and I had ever tasted. Well, actually, my husband said it was his favorite restaurant, Italian or otherwise, in the world. The proprietors were a husband and wife team from the Lake District in Northern Italy and the wife made everything from scratch; and it was all better than I even remembered it being in Italy! We would have never chosen an italian place in Mexico, but we just wanted to sit. Thank goodness theirs was the door in front of us at that moment! It was pricier than we had intended, but worth every penny. We sat on their upper level and had a view of the ocean.
Then there was shopping to do, but our SCUBA instructor told us that if nothing else, we had to sit on the beach in Todos Santos and look for whales. Thank goodness we did! To go to Todos Santos and not brave the dirt roads to get to the beach is like going to Ireland and not setting foot in a pub. I suspect that someone who had a negative experience in Todos Santos unfortunately missed it. After a breathtaking sunset/whale/beach experience, darkness forced us back to our car. We visited the shops, which didn't close until 7, and some 8, and I did a quick spree. Our day ended at a lovely, cheap, outdoor taco stand that was full of locals. Then we headed back to La Paz. It was the most perfect day I have had aside from my wedding, and it all began with our SCUBA instructor telling us the ports were closed in La Paz due to wind. Who knew that missing SCUBA diving could be so glorious?