Here is my trip report from Bequia, Union, and Grenada, early June 2008. I included prices whenever possible to help others gauge expenses. This was my first trip to the Eastern Caribbean and I traveled solo. More than just a vacation, this was a really big experience for me, shoving me out of my comfort zone by opening my eyes and mind to new surroundings and experiences.

This forum was invaluable to me in planning this trip, and I hope to contribute back through this trip report. I’ve also included links to my trip pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28126806@N04/sets/72157605881756276/show/

and this one has the 9 little videos I shot:

www.youtube.com/profile_videos…

Wishing everyone safe and enjoyable travel! - Brian

Bequia

Transport - Arrived in Barbados 30 mins late via AA. Was worried the 1h15m connection time would not be enough, but was met at the door to the arrivals hall by SVG Air and directed to their terminal where I checked in and got my boarding pass. The whole process took about 15 minutes. I did not have to go through customs or baggage claim in BGI, nor did I have to pay the departure tax being in transit. I arrived at least an hour early to my gate. As soon as we boarded though, we were told that our luggage would not be flying with us and would be sent out the next day, due to weight restrictions. I had heard this was a possibility and forgot to pack what I would need for the first 24 hours in my carry on! Basically had the clothes on my back and some books. This was my first time flying with SVG Air and I felt like such an adventurer on this very small plane flying through the clouds to Bequia! When we were in view of Bequia, the plane started heading south. Soon we were over the Tobago Cayes and Union Island, where we landed. I was wondering if I had gotten on the wrong plane! A few people deplaned, then we stopped in Mustique, and finally Bequia about 45 minutes later than scheduled. Not sure why we made the two other stops along the way. SVG Air BGI - BQA = $196US. Was met at the airport by a taxi that had been arranged through the apartment I was to be staying at. Taxi fare from airport to Dejaview apartments in Belmont = $15US + $5US tip. Roundtrip taxi the next day to pick up luggage at airport = $80EC.

Accommodations - Dejaview Apartments, Belmont = $500US, 7 nights. A great apartment located about 5 minute walk to the Belmont walkway. A very large, modern, well maintained apartment with a huge balcony with stunning views over the harbor, perfect for watching the sunset, the clouds and the boats sailing past, and the ever changing colors of sea and sky. The pictures on the website are accurate (though the view is much better in person!), the caretaker Cecilia is wonderful, and the location is very convenient. I chose this apartment for the location, the price, the views, and for the screened windows throughout the apartment and the air-conditioning in the bedroom. Also, the apartment has a cell phone which was very nice to have when trying to retrieve my luggage or confirm reservations. The apartment felt like home and I would stay here again.

Food - Tommy Cantina - dinner, 2 beers, tip = $66EC (decent, though not great Mexican food, but hey, I am from CA).

Gingerbread - breakfast, tip = $29.17EC.

.5ltr Coke at Frangi = $3.45EC.

Crackers, cookies, 6 beers at store = $43.65EC.

Green Boley - beef roti, 2 beers, tip = $22EC (one of my favorite places to eat. The roti is so delicious, filling and very inexpensive. The atmosphere is total dive and I really felt like I was in the Caribbean here!! I ate here three times. The outside tables are great for lunch.)

Mac’s Pizza - 9” pizza, two beers, tip = $66.65EC (Another one of my favorites! All the rave reviews are accurate - the pizza is delicious! Ate here twice.)

Plantain Chips = $1.35EC for a small bag. Delicious, just like potato chips, and I could only find them at Knight Trading on Back Street in Pt. Elizabeth.

Thursday night Jump Up at Frangipani - buffet dinner, with choice of steak or Kingfish, 2 beers, dessert, tip = $101.58EC. The food was really good, the place was hoping, the music was enjoyable, the service was decent. A nice dinner.

Ice cream at Marianne's = $6EC

Cereal, 3 yogurts at Doris’ Fresh Foods = $25EC.

Pizza Hut - thankfully not the American chain restaurant, but a little place with decent pizza and very friendly people. 2 slices of pizza, ginger ale = $17EC.

Frangipani - dinner. Lamb, with lots of side dishes, two beers, dessert, tip = $95EC. Once again, the food was delicious, the service was decent.

De Reef - ham and cheese sandwich, side of rice, coke, tip = $25EC. (Good lunch food, great location on the beach. This is where I discovered Erika’s Hot Sauce - delicious and so hot!)

I am definitely not a foodie, but I thought the food was overall pretty good in Bequia. The Hairoun beer was my favorite, light and refreshing. I didn’t like Carib as much, not till I got to Grenada, where it is brewed locally and comes in a dark bottle as opposed to clear bottle in SVG.

Activities - Bequia Maritime Museum, $5US. Well worth a visit. Lawson Sargeant gives you a guided tour of the history of boating on Bequia. Lawson is a model boat builder, and is helping to preserve the boating history of the island. A great prequel to sailing on the Friendship Rose.

Friendship Rose to Mustique = $125US + $25US tip. Very nice trip, very accommodating and friendly crew. The food was amazing. They even brought out a birthday cake and bottle of champagne for one of the guests. While on Mustique, I walked to Gallicaux Beach, which I had read had great snorkeling. It was a long, but beautiful walk on beautiful deserted beaches. The snorkeling was good, lots of fish, corals, lobsters, etc. Very beautiful and peaceful. Snorkeling was also good in Britannia Bay. A very nice way to spend the day. Highly recommend the Friendship Rose.

Turtle Sanctuary = $10EC entrance + $10EC additional donation. $70EC roundtrip taxi fare from Belmont. A must see on Bequia.

Princess Margaret Beach - beautiful and almost deserted. Decent snorkeling.

Lower Bay Beach - more people, gave it more of a local feel. Good snorkeling at the very south end. Swam with a school of tiny fish (silversides?) so thick I couldn’t see anything else around me!

Diving - Dive Bequia. 3 dives, 2 snorkels = $160US (prepaid, internet special.) $40EC tips to both Rachel, dive master, and Didi, boat captain. I had a good time with Dive Bequia. Everyone was friendly, the equipment was in good shape, there were no more than 6 divers, the crew lugs out and sets up all the equipment for you. The diving was good, the snorkeling I did at Devil’s Table was as good as some of the dives (saw squid, octopus, lobsters, lots of fish, etc. all while snorkeling!)

Overall - I was in Bequia from June 9 - 17, 2008. I had read that this is the slow season, and they weren’t kidding! It was kind of a ghost town, which I didn’t mind at all (though it did make me feel for the locals who depend on tourist revenues for income). Many times, I was the only one eating in a particular restaurant. Most of the people that I met and hung out with were fellow divers. We had one day of rain, and little pockets of rain mostly in the evenings. I found the people in Bequia to be, for the most part, very warm, and friendly. Coming from a big city, it was really enjoyable to make eye contact and say hello to people I passed on the street. Generally, I felt safe traveling alone though I did feel more of a sense of vulnerability being by myself, on a small island, in a foreign country I had never been to, than I am sure I would have felt had I been with others. But this never stopped my from doing anything, besides taking the bus, which seemed a little too much like getting into a strangers minivan (I got over this by the time I got to Grenada!) The island is beautiful, the people are friendly and laid back, the diving and snorkeling were good, and it was such a wonderful experience to visit a place that is unspoiled and a world away, both geographically and mentally, from my day to day life. I would love to go back with others and rent a car next time to further explore the island.

Union Island

Transport - 6.30am ferry Bequia - St. Vincent = $20EC, taxi from ferry to airport = $25EC + $5EC tip. SVG Air St. Vincent - Union = $48US. Stopped in Canouan first. Luggage arrived with flight!

Accommodations - Kings landing Hotel, Clifton. The hotel, like pretty much everything in Clifton, is a little rough around the edges, though decent and clean. My room, a top floor “pool view” was clean, and had strong A/C and a strong shower. The view was spectacular and I don’t know why they don’t describe it as a harbor or sea view and instead call it a “pool view”. My room overlooked the harbor, where I could sit on the balcony and watch the boats and the birds and look at Palm Island in the distance. The balcony also had a wonderful breeze coming off the water. Quiet location right off the main street. The hotel staff were very friendly. Breakfast was included (eggs, bacon, toast, fruit, juice, tea) and talking with the woman who worked in the dining room was like getting a big hug, she was so sweet! The first two nights I was the only one staying at the hotel (talk about slow season!). 3 nights = $285US + VAT $28.50US, + Service $28.50US = $342US. They never cleaned my room the 3 nights I stayed there, nor are there phones in the room. They drove me to the airport when I left. It felt a little expensive, but seemed to be one of the better places to stay in Union. I would stay here again, or check out the AYC (which is more expensive).

Food - West Indies Restaurant, right next to Hotel. The food was decent. Breaded Balahoo, fries, salad, coke, tip = $50EC.

Coke, large bottle of water, 4 beers = $39.50 in a grocery store.

Aquarium restaurant at Bougainvillea - 3 cheese pizza, 2 beers, tip = $60EC. This was my favorite place to eat in Clifton and the only place I ate at on Union that had real wooden chairs (every other place had plastic chairs). The big aquarium is fun to watch, with the octopus and barracuda, but the real treat is the view of Palm Island and Petite Martinique. What a view! And the service was decent (meaning good for Caribbean standards. I work in a restaurant so am very aware of the service when eating out). I ate here twice.

Clifton Beach Hotel - lunch, tuna sandwich, fries, coke, tip = $40EC.

Lambi’s - dinner, fry (sic) chicken, came with lots and lots of sides, 2 beers, tip = $64EC. I am not sure why this place was so recommended. The chicken was scrawny. Way too many side dishes served ( rice, plantains, eggplant, coleslaw, tomatoes, peas, potato, and ice cream - I couldn’t eat it all, would have been good to split for two people), and there was nobody in the restaurant, yet service was still very slow. I hear that in the high season, they have a hopping buffet...

Activities - Day cruise on Scaramouche, $200EC + $40EC tip. The sail boat went to Mayreau, Tobago Cayes, Palm Island. A great day trip and a great way to see the different islands and experience the old world transportation of a sailboat. I chose this cruise over Captain Yannis which has a similar itinerary and price because Scaramouche didn’t play music nor seem like a big party boat. There was no sound but the wind and sea. The service and food were down a notch from the Friendship Rose, but still decent. Highlights were snorkeling at the Tobago Cayes, out of this world wonderful!! We were taken to a reef with crystal clear waters and an abundance of marine life. Then we got to snorkel with the turtles - almost made me cry! Another must do on the trip is go up front and lie in the mesh hammock above the water while sailing. Totally relaxing! I booked the cruise through Erika’s Marine Services in Clifton. Very friendly and helpful people. Same price, great service.

Diving - Grenadines Dive, 2 Tank dive = $110US + $4US marine park entrance fees + VAT = $125US. I was bummed that I didn’t get to meet or go diving with Glenroy Adams, the owner of Grenadines Dive, about whom I had read interesting things. We dove the Tobago Cayes, which were pretty amazing. Saw nurse sharks, eels, lots of fish and corals. It was a good day of diving. The dive shop never asked to see my Certification card, and the dive master seemed pretty lax about safety stops (a personal preference) and our surface interval seemed short at only 30mins. Otherwise, I did feel that the dive master and the boat captain took good care of us, bringing out and setting up all the equipment, and they kept a good eye on me, a fairly new diver. $20EC tips to both dive master and boat captain.

Grenada

Transport - SVG Air, Union - Grenada = $104.45US. The airline told me to be there an hour before my flight, and I basically spent an hour waiting, as checking in, customs and security took all of 5 minutes. It really is a tiny airport! The flight took 25 minutes and was on a ten seat plane, including the pilot! The best views were on the right side. Try and ride next to the pilot for a really unique perspective! Luggage arrived with flight! $40EC departure tax. Taxi from airport to Flamboyant Hotel= $40EC + $5EC tip.

Accommodations - 5 nights in standard hotel room at Flamboyant, overlooking Grande Anse beach = $335US (booked through Skyauction). I arrived at the hotel around 9.30am and they were able to accommodate my early arrival, which was very much appreciated. The view from my room was spectacular!! The climb up the hill to the room was a workout! The staff was friendly and helpful. Dive Grenada is right on the beach. The hotel is great, but I think it would have been best to have a car to further explore the island which was bigger than expected, especially after coming from Bequia and Union. I felt the location to be a little isolated, as it is a 15 minute walk to the bus stop and the Spiceisland Mall (for groceries, ATM, etc.). The tree frogs chirping all night were pretty loud, even with the AC on, I had to sleep with earplugs. They charge $1EC for local calls and there is a $1US tax per night on the room for tourism development in Grenada.

Food - I ate mostly at the hotel restaurant, which was kind of limited and not very exciting. This was the end of my trip, and I just wasn’t into the hassle or expense of exploring for food.

3 bananas, 3 blueberry muffins, cookies, large bottle of water, 6 beers = $44.35EC at Spiceisland Mall.

Ordered room service, $10EC surcharge for delivery, took about 50 minutes for food to arrive.

Buffet breakfast at hotel = $53.10EC, which seemed kind of expensive, though the second time they charged me a la carte prices, and the total was a more reasonable $29.50EC.

Lunches and dinners at their outdoor patio or bar usually came to between $30EC - $60EC, including a couple of sodas, or beers, and tip.

The highlight of food in Grenada was the Aquarium restaurant! I read the rave reviews, and was thrilled with the experience. I met some dive friends from Bequia. We arrived just after the sunset and the colors of the sky and water were magical! The restaurant is beautiful, the food was beautiful and delicious, and the service was good. Chicken breast entree, 2 beers, chocolate cake, tip = $105EC. Taxi from Flamboyant to Aquarium = $80EC roundtrip.

Activities - Half day snorkel trip with Native Spirit Dive = $50US which turned into $53 because the shop charges you 3% transaction fee in addition to the 3% foreign transaction fee the bank charges for a credit card transaction. We got a tour of the harbor in St. Georges, then snorkeled at the underwater sculpture park (which was ok), snorkeled at Flamingo Bay and Turtle head Bay (which were very nice snorkel spots!) Sandwiches and beverages were included. A nice afternoon. $15EC tip to our guides.

I walked to the bus stop in Grande Anse and took the bus to St. Georges. I walked around the city, marveling at the beauty of the city, which is contrasted with all the destruction still visible from Hurricane Ivan in 2004. St. Georges is so charming and the market was thriving with activity. The views of and from Fort Georges are stunning. Don’t miss St. Georges! Round trip bus fare = $5EC. The bus ride was an experience in and of itself!

I walked the road from the hotel to Morne Rouge Beach, which was my favorite beach. Nice beach, not many people, clear waters, shady trees. A very nice day spent on this beach. I found the beach vendors in Grenada to be a bit annoying, even though most were friendly, I still didn’t want to be interrupted while reading or meditating or relaxing on the beach.

Given that it was the slow season, and I was by myself, there weren’t a lot of tours going on for me to join and I couldn’t book any of the tours solo, such as Mandoo’s island tour, or the nature tour at La Sagesse. Maybe next time...

Monday night crab races at the Flamboyant sounded fun, but with all the people picking up (and sometimes dropping) the crabs, it seemed a little cruel.

Diving - Dive Grenada, located right on the beach of the Flamboyant Hotel. 2 tank dive = $120US. They didn’t ask to see my certification card. We had to fully gear up and walk in the water to the boat. Being the slow season, there were only 3 divers with the dive master, Phil, who was very focused on safety and protecting the environment, which I appreciated. He kept a good eye on us 3 divers. We dove a wreck (Veronica L) and a reef (Northern Exposure). The diving was good, a bit cold, even in a shorty. Lots of fish on the wreck.

Departure - Left on the AA flight at 7.24am. Arrived at the airport around 6.00am and had plenty of time to get ticketed, check bags, pay departure tax ($20US), go through security, and get something to eat or drink.