In 1963, Schöneberg was the center of the political west, inspiring John F. Kennedy to choose this area to famously announce, "Ich bin ein Berliner." Times may have changed, but modern-day Schöneberg still pays tribute to its historical legacies. Once the richest city outside of Berlin proper, the area's affluent past is still visible in ornate housing facades dating back to the Gründerzeit of the 19th century, while residents in fur coats walking their dogs or shopping in high-end KaDeWe continue the tradition with a modern flair. Schöneberg was also once the center of the decadent and burlesque nightlife of the 1920s. It was here that Marlene Dietrich partied with Christopher Isherwood and the first gay bar in Germany was founded. Today, the gay community still revolves around Nollendorfplatz. The overground Ubahn station is even illuminated in rainbow colors, paying tribute to Schöneberg's progressive past.