It's just a 20-km walk from Santo Domingo to Belorado and the Casa Rural Verdeancho is on the left-hand side as you enter the village (in the old Jewish quarter), just before the church which has the main pilgrims' refuge.

I had stayed there in 2005 and found this converted stone house, run by Elsa and Afredo, a young couple, to be well-run and hospitable. The downstairs salon is just like a family room, with a fire blazing and with the addition of a bar in the corner, and the couple's children charmingly and politely chat with the guests as they do they homework. A very basic breakfast was available for 3 euro.

The rooms are all nicely renovated, with hardwood flooring and trendy colours on the walls. Beds are comfortable and the washrooms clean and efficient. On arrival with two German friends and a Canadian couple, we were all calmly accommodated. My corner room, at 35 euro, overlooked the terrace and pilgrim walkway by the small river. more