Chiloe tends to be off the trail for 90 percent of backpackers. It's a stunning place and Chonchi is amongst the highlight. Cute little village...and Carlos O'Grady's wonderful hostel on the sea front.

The hostel is ramshackle but cool. Sporadic wifi and cable tv too. Cosy, creaky beds and the most amazing views. Carlos might not let you in if he doesn't like you but will do his best to find you somewhere else.

Carlos, if you're reading this, thanks for a memorable short stay in June/July of last year. You put me and my girlfriend and a german guy up and wouldn't let anyone else stay so we had the play all to ourselves.

You made us wonderful apple pancakes with yoghurt and fruit for breakfast and were the most helpful tourist guide I've ever met (apart from Uve at The Gaucho in Bariloche).

Oh and your maps of Chonchi are legendary :) more