Downtown and points east, the otherside of Las Vegas
based on 28 votes
When you get tried of the glitz and neon facade of the Disney like parts of Las Vegas.
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Las Vegas
- Category: Walking tour
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Ahh the dear Western... I know it well. Located on Fremont a few blocks east of the Blvd. Everything you read in the Trip Advisor reviews about it is TRUE! No pirate shows, no literal fountains, no rollercoaster but it is basic old school Las Vegas fun on skid row. It's simple - Expect nothing and you will be happy, expect the Bellagio and you will be unhappy. Bring only small denomination bills and show nothing over a $20.00. Be sure to dress down for the visit. Not such a bad place but most certainly not the Las Vegas you see on the Travel Channel. This also covers the Atomic Bar, a quaint place a few doors east along Fremont. You need to get buzzed in. Do heed the advice for both places.
Down to facts about the Western: Now there is gambling at the Western and then there is gambling, do you mean gambling at the tables or the machines, gambling with the "fine dining" or the people you meet at the bar including fairly harmless down and out folks with great tales of woe and gambling with the freindly ladies who just need a little help to make the rent If you sit at the bar or play at a machine expect to be approached by a stranger, male or female, with a story of woe which can be fixed by the gift of money. If you get in a bind call securoty and they will get you out of most things.
A CI-CO Place: How it works = Coins go in and coins go out, (pretty standand: more go in than come out), watch your chips as they can be stolen, watch your back and leave nothing at the bar when nature calls as nothing will be there when you return.
Bring some Pepto in a vain hope to combat the cusine.All and all, if you leave your expectations behind and you will have a good time. If you are not street smart, get a good buzz on (with dollar drafts, a ten spot = ten large beers and that should do it). Leave before dark with a few stories to tell, or maybe not tell, or maybe just tell your doctor. Then take your cheapo buzz to the Experience and have a fun time. |
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2. Gold Spike Hotel and Casino
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Ave price:
$38
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"WHERE THE LOCALS PLAY" the Gold Spike is located at Odgen and 3rd off the beaten track in Downtown Las Vegas. It is an odd place. The casino is smokey, old, dingy and full of many of the same colorful people that you see at the Western. The same dress code and ground rules apply.
The rooms are cheap and even for Downtown but not really all that bad. There is a "diner" that serves basic food for the down and out I have enjoyed many a breakfast there for $1.99. The cocktail lounge consists af a seedy bar that features their own large dollar draft glasses of beer.
At the bar or if you play at a machine, expect to be approached by a stranger, male or female, with a story of woe which can be fixed by the gift of money. If you get in a bind, call securoty and they will get you out of most things.
It is also a Coin In - Coin Out (CI-CO) place. Sadly it is all machines now as they no longer have blackjack.
An added bonus - around Noon each day the prior night's collection of Defendants in minor criminal cases are released from the nearby City Hall and the Gold Sppike is the very first place they stop at. |
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3. Fitzgeralds Casino & Hotel
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Ave price:
$62
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I like the second floor bar it is close tho the balcony where you can see the light show and the john is on the same floor.
The Casino was pretty much as I remembered it, nothing fancy, typical for Downtown.
Watched the bartenders at the Fitz juggle bottles while making drinks, much as they do at Harrahâs Carnival Court.
Fun book included two for one drink specials, discounts on hotel logo stuff, a little money off on shows. and a $5.00 match play blackjack or roulette, I did the roulette and got $15.00 back.
My room was on the 21st floor, out of I think, 34 floors in the hotel. For an extra 10 bucks, I got an upgraded room, as is my custom. Room # 2134. $39.00 plus $10.00 + $49.00 plus tax, so call it $55.00 a night total.. No extra hidden fees but you were warned of a charge for local calls at $1.00 each and even more for long distance. I used my cell phone, good signal strength from Cingular in the room. Checking in and out was no problem. Electronic door lock and 2 keys.
Remember this was a deluxe room a 10 bucks a night more than a regular room. I don't know what a regular room is like but I could think of few things that were missing, well maybe a hot tub and fridge.
No bugs.
Free USA Today newspaper delivered to my hotel room door each morning.
I had heard complaints about the elevators but I had no problem with them. There were 4 and they moved pretty fast and there was only a reasonable wait time for them.
21st floor hall was in good shape with new carpet in appealing patterns but it had begun to come up at the seams but I guess hauling those heavy baggage carts around will tear any carpet up over time. Ice machine and soft drink vending machine near the elevators.
Quiet in the room, no sound from the hall nor from other rooms except some sound of running water in the bathroom. The A/C could be considered loud by some but I am a city boy and not used to the quiet, so for me it was just a little background ÃâwhiteÃâ noise. Comforting in a way.
King sized bed, bedding was fine. 3 pillows plus 2 extras from the shelf in the alcove. Mattress was fine. One could feel the springs through the pad if you worked at it but it was not noticeable when sleeping. The best bed I had so far was at the California, that may have had that memory foam pad, anyway it was a nicer bed than at TI.
In the room there was the bed with wall mounted headboard and two night stands, misc. lamps, alarm clock, a small desk and chair, an easy chair on the wall common with the bathroom, a round table and 2 chairs near the window, a dresser and armoire with TV above and drawers below. All in great shape, no sign of wear and everything worked. There was even a shoe buffing machine.
Decent sized color TV that got local channels, live Keno and tourist infomercials and CNN. Not a problem because I donÃât go there to watch TV anyway, just the local weather and later the weather back home. Remote control worked fine.
Carpet, a Ãâlucky IrishÃâ green color, was in good shape, no wear and was clean. General room decor was pleasant. A very few black marks where wall met the luggage carts but not really noticable. Housekeeping staff was efficient but not all spoke English. so there were a few Fawlty Towers moments when the statement that ÃâI will be back at a certain time and please be done by thenÃâ was not always understood.
One wall was waist to ceiling windows facing west. You had a view of the hotels nearby with mountains in between., you could just see the time and temperature on top of Binions. That was handy to see how hot it really was. 103 at sundown one day, an hour or so later it had dropped 10 degrees to a bone chilling 93.
In late afternoon, with the hot sun on the windows, even with the A/C on high and the black out curtains shut, the A/C struggled to keep it cool. It was not hot but could have been cooler. The curtains blew around a little while the A/C was on.
Bathroom was fine, it had a tub and shower, a long marble countertop with one basin. Good stuff in small bottles, about standard, not a name brand but it smelled good. 3 sets of bath towels, hand towels and wash cloths. These were not as soft as at home but nor were they the sand paper you get at a lot of places.
Shower as fine, the water pressure was very strong, almost too strong, think fire hose. There was no way to turn down the volume of water. After a while in the shower there was some water built up in the tub. By no means a problem for me.
Also, in the bathroom was a coffee maker with 2 cups. ample supply of plastic glasses. A hair dryer that started out mounted on the wall then fell off due to a poor anchor bolt. I reported it and it was fixed promptly. Some un-gluing of wallpaper above the shower, probably due to humidity.
No closet, your clothes were on a rod in an alcove on your right as you first walked in. A good number of wooden hangers. Shelf above for other stuff. Also an iron and ironing board.
Stout room safe mounted in the wall of the alcove, used a key. The hassle with that was where to put the darn thing. I personally prefer a electronic combo safe for that reason. Internal volume was maybe 14 inches by 12 by 4 deep. Probably as big as the one at TI but smaller than the one at California. Not quite big enough for a full sized lap top, you could probably put 2 large hard cover books side to side, with a little room to spare. No fee to use the safe.
The ground level pool was nice but nothing fancy. A rectangle maybe 30 by 20 and 5 feet deep max. A few palm trees but nothing elaborate. Ample plastic loungers and a good supply of towels. No attendant nor life guard but there were cameras. I noticed security ask a couple with 2 small babies not to put them in the pool. Maybe for safety reasons but frankly they did not look housebroken to me. You could call from drink service.
Plenty of sun in mid August and I think it would be sunny in all but the coldest months. Pool was a street level with a wall on 3 sides and a fence on the 4th side facing a drive way. Not right on the street, so no problems with people passing by. There is a moderate sized hot tub, the controls are on the left side. Your room key opened a gate. There were washrooms nearby accessed with your room key. Pool was open 7:00 am to 11:00 pm. No glass allowed but discrete cans of beer poured into the plastic glasses were fine. |
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Ave price:
$82
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The Omaha Bar can be fun if the band is good, interesting mix of folks at this hotel. |
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A fun bar on east Fremont in Las Vegas Nevada. The sort of place you have to get buzzed into. Lately they have been closing around 10:00 to keep the rif raf out. It is so named because back when they were testing atomic bombs outside the city, the people responsible for their care and development used to drink there. The bar scenes in the movie CASINO were shot there. It is sometime possible to see famous folks, with their names in lights on the Strip, stop there for a quiet drink where they won't be bothered so if you see someone famous please just give them their space.
Recently returned to the Atomic on the 6th of August, met up with Scott the Bartender again. If you go say hello to him from the only man to walk in there in a white dinner jacket and tux in the past 20 years. Met the owners, Joe and Stella Sobchik, very nice folks. They plan to keep the place open, possibly adding bands. Since they own the entire quarter block, they cannot be forced out. Like the El Cortez, they are just waiting for the tide of prosperity to rise in that area. The block across the street once containing the infamous Ambassador East will be razed and a new low rise building, use unknown, will take its place.
The Atomic is a local bar, rather ordinary looking really.
A quiet place or insane asylum depending on the crowd.
It is located just east of the Western on the same side of the street. Scott the Bartender works there most afternoons and evenings. Fear not, he runs the place witha firm hand and there is never trouble.
It's kind of L shaped.
You are buzzed in the front door and there is a bar in front of you running east to west.
Many useful plastic bottles, of say Dimitri vodka or Black Label whiskey, are sold there.
Turn the corner and the left side of the bar runs north and south. There is a juke box on that side as well as I think a pool table.
That side of the bar was used in the bar scenes in the film Casino
The bathrooms are to the right of the main part of the bar, you need to be buzzed in.
One person per bathroom please, that cuts down on the sweet trade.
BY ALL MEANS GIVE IT A TRY.
I recommend an early afternoon stroll. and plan to get back before sundown.
First consider what you are bringing and travel light
Go east on the south side of Fremont to the corner of Fremont .and LV BLVD.
Take a deep breath and cross the BLVD.
You will walk a few blocks and pass a few shops, etc.
On the otherside of the street you will see the El Co. and the now closed Ambassador East but stay on the south side of the street.
You WILL most likely be approached by the charming locals selling their wares, just say No Thanks and keep on going.
In a very little time, you will pass the entrance of the Western gaping open like the mouth of a skull with all its teeth rotted out.
Do stop in for a quick drink, the bar is on the left, it's square shaped with a few tall round tables..
The gaming there is cheap and it will NEVER be confused with the Bellagio.
Don't worry - .You will be ok if you watch yourselves and Casino security is plentiful and they will be watching out for you.
If nature calls, do it in stages with someone on guard over your stuff.
Stumble out into the cruel light of day and don't forget your mission.
Continuing east, turnin to the right as you leave the Western, away from the FSE, you will come upon the Atomic.
Ask Scott how to find the Bunkhouse, another fine place in the area.
On the way back you can cross the street and hit the El Co then exiting from the north side of the El Co and headed west you will find the Gold Spike.
Be sure to return to the FSE or at least the Gold Spike by sundown.
For photos - Go to the main TA site and look at the reviews of the Gold Spike, I posted photos of the Western and Atomic there. |
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6. The sleazy side of East Fremont Street in Las Vegas Nevada
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The sleazy side of East Fremont Street in Las Vegas Nevada Moving east and a little north of the FSE we begin to descend into the darkness . This is NOT for everyone! I do not judge these folks, I just report what I have seen. There you find the bar at the Gold Spike, not a real tourist joint, be very careful. A dark, smoky, dirty place stocked with the unwashed unlucky of Las Vegas You decide, either a fun excursion or a scary dump. Dollar 40 oz drafts, tales of woe abound from all sides. Not so successfully recovering alcoholics, the almost cured lunatics, the apparent drug dependent, ladies in distress who will tell you that they are just a little short of the rent but will assure you that their problems can be solved, at least temporally, with a generous gift of money, the amount of their gratitude is consistent with the amount of the said gift. In the space of one 40 oz. dollar draft of Coors light you will be asked many times for spare change, a cigarette, recognized as someone you are not (hopefully someone they like), and other suggestions on what to do with your time and money will be made. If you can be there at Noon, the fun really begins, the inmates are released form the City Hall and all make a bee line to the bar at the Gold Spike. The gossip that you overhear there is intersting, remember a trip to jail is like going to camp. âI saw Mary, she was in for 30 for hooking, I told her you said hi, boy she got fat, she gets out on Tuesdayâ. If the Gold Spike scares you go no further. Go quickly back to the Golden Nugget if not ... Moving east back on Fremont you cross the Blvd. into the âscary part of town. Not so scary these days with the closure of the Ambassador East and the luxury condo springing up but still pretty rough.
2 important things to remember # 1 you can leave at any time, they cannot. #2 Keep your wits about you and you will be ok. Of course if you chose to count C notes in a dark alley, you will be asking for trouble but the denizens of east Fremont Street have to live there each day and the last thing they need is more trouble with the cops. Most, not all, are scavengers, not predators. On the street here you will find those who do not have the cash to hang out at the level of the Gold Spike. While on you way to the next bar, if you stop to chat with the locals on the street, you will be offered goods and services of a personal nature and could very well draw the interest of the cops.
Moving east are the bars at the Western, the El Cortez, the Atomic Liquors and other places, all containing the same crowd, more or less, as the Gold Spike.
Why the sleazy local joints:
First, you cannot beat the price. For instance $1.00 for 40 oz of draft beer in a plastic cup = 400 oz of beer. So that ten spot you spend on a bottle at the trendy bar on the Strip will get you some 400 oz of draft beer or 33 individual 12 oz cans or a little over 3 gallons of beer. For most folks, if you consume 3 gallons of Coors light, you will at least get a buzz, more likely you will be lying on the filthy bathroom floor trying to pee uphill. I DO NOT recommend drinking all 3 gallons, all at once. Pace yourself.
There is a certain cheap thrill in going where you were warned not to go. Most posters are correctly afraid of these joints. If you are not street smart, reasonably comfy in the bad parts of New York, Chicago, LA or Boston, stay away. If you make it in and out alive, you can tell your friends âa funny thing happened when I was drinking at the Westernâ and your friends will think you either mad or brave, maybe both.
I have such places near my home and know how to fit in, I am also a big guy and project the image that if you mug me you will loose. The people there are not those you want to take home ( I do not recommend that you let them take you home either) but their stories of woe are intersting and can really put your own troubles in perspective. If you buy one of them a drink, sit back and listen you will get enough stories to write a movie script, a book or at least a good blues song.
When you have your fill of that scene, you can wander back west and the glitz of the Fremont Street Experience will seem like a real paradise in comparison. Enjoy
.It is a habit to talk to locals and seem to hear things that most tourists don’t, then again maybe they are just not listening. Sometimes repeat them here, if they would be of interest, most times don’t.
As they re-develop Fremont eastward up to the Western’s parking lot, some of the “class” may fade east towards the Western but speaking to a lot of the locals, that place was rough from day one.
History lesson time - This is an observation from an old timer who lived there on and off since the early 70’s.. That was that back when the trade of the soiled doves was mostly legal in Clark County. There were unofficial joy houses in that area. These are the low budget “hotels” you still see lining Fremont and the adjoining streets today. Not the formal place you see in movies or on HBO. The doves would hang out in the “hotel” lobby in hopes of making friends and customers would come in and browse and chat and the doves would flirt and if all was in agreement, they would adjoined to her room above. The owner of the property, of course, knew nothing of such illicit goings on but still charged the girls more of a commercial than residential rental rate. It mostly all operated as a loose freelance operation. Back then they treated it in a “business is business” manner and was told that a lot of these place were less sleazy than one may think today. Although unlicensed, these places stayed open through an “understanding” with the beat cops who benefited greatly from the commerce and were sure to keep things nice and quiet to insure the cash flow to all concerned, so there was little trouble.
After such activities became illegal in Clark County, these places closed or went undercover and the soiled doves shifted more to the casinos and bars and, worst case, the street. Then the hard drugs came in and things got real bad. Drugs lead to addictions which upped the daily cash requirements for the soiled doves. Drugs wore down the doves as well and the area became what you found there perhaps 5 years ago. A war zone. The Ambassador was the worst. The deal at the Ambassador was not the same as back in the old days. No freelance work, everyone worked for the street gangs, sometimes just for drugs and maybe food. Customers had a good chance of getting robbed by resident gang bangers.
Now with the closing of the Ambassador a few years ago and the hard drugs are moving out, things are really beginning to improve in that area Cops patrol the area a lot. Security in and around the El Cortez is tight and I doubt if places like the Beauty Bar, Griffin and similar trendy places opening soon will tolerate such things and the area is beginning to finally return to quasi respectability.
Perhaps if the El Cortez joins the organization that runs the FSE, the bike security officers will move down there as well. Only time will tell. |
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| A little known local bar - A cozy place but well off the beaten path. Family run. Nice selection of beers. Live bands, no cover, different style of music each night. This is east of the Western on Fremont at 11th then turn right or south a few doors past the hostel. The area is pretty rough but survivable if you keep your wits about you..Although everyone is welcome, this is a place to go to avoid tourists. |
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8. The Downtown Security Zone
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Safe - Where is it really safe? - Chicago, New York, LA, Boston or the Strip - Nope! Heck it is not even safe to stay under the bed anymore.
The Downtown Security Zone, that is under the canopy and around the hotels, is safer than most places. Every inch is on camera and there are roving foot and bike security patrols. Think of it as being a large shopping mall at home. Being smaller and more contained, it is safer than the Strip.
This area is all about getting money from tourists, if they feel unsafe, they will not come. The focus of the security is to make the tourist feel safe and secure so they will spend their money Downtown. Anything that gets in the way of that is stomped upon.
Does that mean there are no pickpockets nor conmen nor time share people in the Downtown Security Zone. No. You are still at risk but you can take reasonable precautions against them.
Will you be hit up by vagrants, panhandlers, free lance pharmacists or soiled doves in the Downtown Security Zone - Not under the canopy and probably not right around the hotels. They may be there or walking through but they are easily identified by security and trouble from them is simply not tolerated, they will be ejected and/or arrested and they know it.
FYI - They handle local drunks differently than drunks in town for a good time from Pittsburgh but they have their limits, even for tourists and you could be sent to your room.
Will you be at risk for a violent mugging or worse in the Downtown Security Zone? Nothing is certain but probably not.
Even outside of the Downtown Security Zone there are plenty of Metro cops and it is still pretty safe from that but the further you go from that zone, the greater the chance of running into vagrants, panhandlers, free lance pharmacists or soiled doves. These people have to live too and they live as scavengers not (usually) as predators.
Use standard street smarts, know where you are and how to get home, mind your own business, donât flash a lot of cash (and remember that $20 can be a lot to some folks), and just say No and keep on going.
Have fun. |
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9. El Cortez Hotel and Casino
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Ave price:
$58
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I stayed at the El Cortez in late March of 2007. I got a non-smoking Tower room, # 1411. At about $50.00 a night it was comparable to any standard hotel room in Downtown Las Vegas including the Golden Nugget
and I would stay at the El Cortez again..
My room had a fresh, tropical decor and had a good view of the Strip and even had a small balcony. My requested king room was not available, so rather than wait, I got 2 queen beds, not a problem for me.
The beds were comfortable and appeared nearly new, at least the one I used but the other was good for organizing my stuff. In general, the carpet, furniture, TV and fixtures in the room appeared nearly new and showed little wear. Furniture included 2 queen beds, a dresser with new TV, a small foldout desk, a love seat near the window with a coffee table, see the photos. Lighting was good but could have used more light over the desk. Looks like there is a data hookup near the desk. The remote for the TV died on the last day and I checked the batteries and found them original to the TV, e.g. same brand, so I knew that it was a newer TV. Sink, mirror and closet space were in an alcove separated by a door from the shower and toilet. Shower had a small window that opened onto the balcony.
Water pressure was good but you stepped up in to the tub and the shower head came to about 5 feet 6 inches above the floor of the tub and anyone much over 6 feet would have trouble using it. The usual small bottles of useful stuff in the bathroom. Ample towels were softer than at the Golden Nugget. Heat and AC worked fine but thermostat seemed older and was hard to read. No fridge but one was sent up with no problem nor extra cost. No iron or ironing board, one could have been sent up but that was not an issue for me. No coffee pot nor in room safe but again not a problem, there is a coffee place near the elevators and a free safe deposit box behind the front desk.
In general, the hotel is in good shape and is in the middle of a major renovation matching that of the neighborhood around it. No bugs, mystery stains nor other major issues. I ran into the owner in an elevator, he lives on the 15th floor. Nice older gent with his trademark green tie, I complimented him on the hotel and he wished me luck. Casino had a lot more table games and fewer slot machines etc. than I recall from years past. I was told they are opening it up
to avoid the crowded look you can still find at the venerable Gold
Spike. Weather was warm, in the 80’s and I missed a pool nor can guests use the pool at the Plaza anymore since they changed owners..
I watched a crane lift large air handling units onto the roof of the casino, once they were operational, I noticed a real change in the air quality inside the casino. Ate a buffet, it was ok but was not great. The Subway sandwich shop was about standard for a Subway. Fun Book was OK but not great. Enjoyed all 3 bars, do ask for the tall glass of Sam Adams at the bar near the check in desk. There is also a fancy round bar with a piano player and a more normal bar near the Fremont Street entrance. Casino/hotel security was tight, including officers watching the sidewalk outside the property. Security cameras in the hotel hallways.
Stashed my bag in my friend’s vintage room until mine was ready, it was about as big as a small bedroom in an older house maybe 12 feet square at the most with a painted over window. Definitely go for the tower room if you can as it only costs a few dollars more but is well
worth it.
In general, the area continues to improve from years past and is much
safer than its reputation from the bad old days. Walking the streets at all hours, I was not bothered much at all, just a few panhandlers and other miscreants but no one threatening. This in now called The Entertainment District, extending east to 8th, or the parking lot of the Western Much money is going into civic improvements and there is talk of extending the Canopy down to the Western.
Trendy new nightspots like the Griffin and the Beauty Bar have opened nearby. Also old standards like the Atomic Liquors, Bunkhouse Saloon and the funky old Western Casino/Hotel. A new luxury condo (I ask you, is there any other kind these days?) called Streamline Tower
is going up just to the north of the El Cortez which will help to clean up the area further.
Much road work going on and soon the sort of historic neon signs seen under the FSE will advance eastward. Both lead to some disturbing construction noise at all hours when the window and balcony door were open, but this is part of urban life and should be over soon.
BOTTOM LINE – Although probably not for the Vegas virgin seeking the glitz of the tourist traps on the Strip, with its combination of truly classic old school Las Vegas charm and the new renovations both inside the property and the general upgrading of the surrounding
area, this is a good place to stay and I sure would stay here again. |
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Located in the new Entertainment District on the south side of the five hundred block of east Fremont Street. A few doors west of the House of Beauty a/k/a The Beauty Bar. They share a similar clientele.
The latest in a number of trendy nightspots quickly replacing many of the mostly vacant storefronts in the area adding to the new class joints just west of the Blvd. like Mickey Finn’s and Hennessey’s.
A simple old storefront with very unusual signage.
The interior has been transformed into a medieval castle. Vaulted ceilings, made I was told at great expense, from steel, cement, plaster and paint.
Low leather couches and chairs surround low gas fireplaces. The lighting is dark even subdued, blending toward gloomy in places, thus offering islands of relative privacy.
Mostly occupied by a young and hip crowd of upscale locals and some knowledgeable tourists.
The door is carefully guarded to insure that no underage people enter and probably to keep the light of day out.
The prices are high for the area, $8.00 for a generous Knob Creek on the rocks.
This probably serves to keep out the local riff raff but there was no cover charge.
Wearing a tuxedo at the time there was no dress code mentioned but the customers’ dress leaned more toward business casual than beach wear.
Juke box in the back held current alternative rock.
A low key perhaps, even a romantic place.
Opens around 5:00 pm and stays open well towards dawn.
When I was there in late March there was much work being done on Fremont to extend the collection of classic neon signs found on the FSE, down to the 800 block of Fremont.
A good place to go in the evenings.
The area is up and coming but can still require some caution but this should not stop you from going there as it is but a few steps past the Blvd. |
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Compliment chitowngambler
chitowngambler
Many trips to this area.
