Upscale Thirtysomething's Guide to Cabo
LAWorldTravelers
Every year we're asked by newbies where to go and what to do so we felt it was time to give back to all the savvy folks who do their basic research before coming down to this wonderful place where you can either be sucked into the tourist traps or find the real good spots through good research!
Aug 17, 2006
based on 44 votes
List of services, shopping, restaurants and activities that upscale, well-traveled thirtysomethings will love in Cabo
- Category: Best of
-
Traveler type: Sightseeing, Shopping, Active/Outdoors, Repeat visitors, Beachgoers
-
Appeals to: Couples/romantics, Honeymooners, Singles, Families with small children, Active/adventure, Tourists
- Seasons: Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall
- Tags: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, Cabo, Baja California, Baja Peninsula, Beach, Tequila
|
|
1. Hotel/Timeshare: The Hilton Los Cabos
|
|
More and more, travelers who read online reviews are coming to realize that the Hilton Los Cabos is one of the most elegant, well-kept gems in Baja. While there are occasional screwups noted on the blogs (you'd expect this from a 375 room hotel with a timeshare wing), the Hilton has been our mainstay for the last 4 years.
Because of the high price of drinks, food and amenities at all the resorts, and because we have kids who are great at wasting the tres-cher pasta and quesadillas, we purchased a timeshare at the Hilton several years ago. The timeshare wing is just the easternmost wing of the hotel, so it is fully integrated into the hotel and benefits from the professional management of the Hilton and its outstanding, friendly staff. The timeshare rooms have fridges and kitchenettes to accommodate our Costco-La Europea-Soriana shopping sprees and which allows us keep the tequila chilled in the room.
There are so many wonderful things to say about the Hilton. From it's dual pools with swim-up bars and awesome drinks, covered spa/jacuzzi, outdoor dining and cavernous common areas, the scene is one in which arriving guests first stand above the pool area kibitzing about what a good find they just made. Wireless internet is available in every room and is cheap.
What is most evident, beside the neat cantilevered pool umbrellas, cabanas and nice swimmable ocean bay area, is the world-class service poolside. Within moments of stepping into the pool area you are greated with a friendly "buenas dias" or, for the really hungover late sleepers, "buenas tardes", and offered assistance in choosing your chaise lounge, towels and umbrella positioning. As soon as you're settled, another member of the staff is at your side asking if you would like drinks. It's that way all day long, but somehow (unlike the vendors on Medano beach) it's never obtrusive or too frequent, and it's been this way for at least 4 years.
If you have kids over 4, be sure to check out the Vacation Station (cheesy name for a Kids Club) where your kids can go nearly free of charge the whole day if they wish, or come and go as much as they'd like while you sip mango daquiries at the pool. Our kids fell in love with the staff and we tipped generously.
A few additional highlights:
- The buffet breakfasts are excellent, with some regional food and old standbys
- The deli store contains some good snacks and ice cream for the kids
- The main bar in the hotel can be lively at night and makes for a good nightcap
- It can be fun to disrobe in the ocean late at night (I don't remember who told me that)
To summarize, in Cabo "upscale" can mean Palmilla-upscale at $800 a night, or it can mean Pueblo Bonito resort to less discerning travelers (if you don't mind a feeling of old and moldy, not that we would know). For an internationally acceptable definition of upscale that is cost-efficient, the Hilton should be your choice. |
|
|
2. Transportation: Hertz Car Rental, San Jose del Cabo
|
|
| If you plan to have the convenience of going when and wherever you want in Cabo, you should definitely rent a car. Hertz has always let us negotiate to crazy low rates. Our typical rental is a minivan (WITH A/C, please!) and goes for about $475 per week (25% off the asking rate so prepare to bargain with them and show them this list). |
|
|
3. Food: Costco, Cabo San Lucas
|
|
| Hopefully you found your way to a timeshare or other hotel with a fridge and kitchenette. It's a great way to be frugal with the meaningless breakfast and lunches so that you can have the world class dinners available in both Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Costco has about 50% of the items you'll need for a week of feeding yourselves and the kids. For example, we always pick up water bottles, some wine and liquor, sodas, trail mix, etc. See our note on the supermarkets and La Europea for the rest of what you'll need. |
|
|
4. Food: Soriana Supermarket or Mega Supermarket
|
|
| (I cannot find the URL to Mega Supermarket but who cares!) If you're following the LAWorldTraveler upscale 30-something approach to Cabo where you'll have your fridge and kitchenette, you'll quickly realize that Costco is great, but not one-stop-shopping. Soriana and Mega are two similar supermarket chains that will remind any Gringo from the States of Wal-Mart. Soriana can be found about 2 miles north on the highway leading to Todos Sandos just before you enter Cabo San Lucas. Mega is best for visitors staying in San Jose or close by on the corridor between the two cities and is at the traffic circle about 2 miles from the edge of San Jose (where the McDonald's is). We always pick up vegetables, cold cuts, cereal, milk, bagels, etc. from these supermarkets. Don't forget to pick up plastic bags and aluminum foil if you're staying a week--trust us, you'll need it. |
|
|
5. Food: La Europea Supermarket
|
|
| Whether you go at the beginning of your trip or the end, La Europea is, I'm fairly certain, the best place to go with the least expensive high-end wines and spirits and, to my knowledge, the ONLY place you can go in Cabo for $1 six-packs of Corona or Pacifico (depends on the day or maybe year). There are at least 6 world class tequilas there--from 1942 to Herradura to Don Julio to Jose Cuervo 1800 Anejo or the private reserve. All are priced at nearly 60% of what you'll pay in the US so bring room in your suitcase (lord knows you can't bring liquids in the airplane...). They also have a great selection of pate's, tapenades and other upscale yuppie snacky stuff we love. La Europea is located about a mile east of the Home Depot (yup, one here, too) on the north side of the corridor highway. I think it's closed Sundays. |
|
|
|
6. Kid's Crack: McDonalds
|
|
| When the kids just insist on something "different" from the peanut butter & jelly sandwiches they've had for lunch for the last 5 days, just give in and bring them to McDonald's in the Mega supermarket shopping center in San Jose del Cabo. There is a Burger King in Cabo San Lucas at the Marina if you swing the other way. |
|
|
|
7. Activities: Day at Billigans and Night at the Office
|
|
At least one of your days should be spent on the Playa Medano ("Medano Beach") which is the main southeastern facing beach in Cabo San Lucas and where much of the singles (not that we married-with-children 30-somethings would notice) action is. Billigan's is sort of a "beach club for a day" where you can get chaise lounges, food and drink service (2-for-1 drinks during much of the day--though we don't know the margarita prices before 9am ;-p ). From there, go to Baja Watersports (see the Waverunner entry in our goList) and find all sorts of things to do. In the evening, particularly Thursdays, if you still have any go in you, the restaurant/bar everyone talks about called the Office, hosts a Mexican fiesta show starting at around 6pm. So walk the 5 feet from Billigans to the Office (may be good to get reservations early in the day) and enjoy food from the owners of Edith's (both restaurants are quite good; see our Edith's entry in our goList). The Mexican fiesta starts a bit slack but gets pretty interesting and, with a few shots of tequila and a margarita it is quite enjoyable, if not a bit corny.
Note: The Mango Deck on the other side of the Office is a good singles drunkard bar where they host silly competitions designed to connect the boys and the gals and watch what happens. Where are the reality TV show creators when you need them? |
|
|
|
8. Activities: Jungle Cruise (booze cruise)
|
|
| Picture a somewhat ragged trimaran boat (3 side-by-side hulls with a deck on top--actually makes for a very stable ride). Now add enthusiastic 20- and 30-somethings who have never been to Cabo and all-you-can-drink jungle punch. Combine that formula with a gorgeous sunset cruise and it's a recipe for a great mood-shift when you arrive in Cabo. Since it's inevitable that any party-minded couple like ourselves will leave somewhat sloshed, we recommend the Jungle Cruise on the first or second day of your trip. Don't get suckered into a drunken dinner at Mi Casa or one of the other big Gringo tourist trap restaurants with greasy beans and rice plates as big as your butt and leave you saying "why the heck did I just pay $30 for THAT!--just watch: If you go on the Jungle Cruise, some other newbies you drunk-chat with on the cruise will have heard of Mi Casa from some other newbies and soon your new group of friends will be headed toward Mexican food-doom. Go to El Meson de Zapata for great, unassuming, non-tourist trap Mexican food instead. Tastes great drunk. (See our goList entry for Zapata for details.) |
|
|
9. Activities: Todos Santos (Artist Colony and Surf Beach)
|
|
Every year we find it compelling to travel the 1 hour from Cabo to this quaint artist's colony that, unfortunately, you must time properly to find all the galleries open. Check the website for Todos Santos to get a feel for the best time to go. From experience with Montezuma himself, consider staying away from the taco stands which taste great but are definitely not worth the intestinal ramifications, so to speak. The true restaurants in town are fine and quaint. Here, stick with beer, wine and water only, no ice.
A bit south of town there are turn-offs to some really nice beaches with surf-breaks. You'll want to check out www.todossantos- baja.com/todos- santos/maps/beach- map.htm (remove the extra spaces to form one URL; TripAdvisor has a word-length limit) for a map of the beaches in the area. Note the warnings about swimming here, however. If you're going to swim, go with a friend and both of you should be strong swimmers. |
|
|
|
10. Activities: Shopping
|
|
If you've come with a woman or have guilt-tripping friends at home, you'll want to do some shopping for jewelry and chochkies in Cabo San Lucas and San Jose. For the fearless, try the stores at The One and Only Palmilla. Generally, San Jose caters to a more upscale crowd, with more refined jewelry and some world-class houseware ceramics (not to mention the dining, which we cover later in our goList).
There is a high turnover among stores in Cabo San Lucas as, frankly, there are too many stores for the amount of crap that people actually buy (what a surprise). Accordingly, you should, no matter how uncomfortable you feel, make an offer of 1/3 of what the initial offer by the merchant is. You'll settle at about 40-50% of the initial offer. If the merchant insists on going above it, walk out and you'll most likely get your price on the way out the door. Every longtime visitor I've known becomes quite comfortable playing the bargaining game.
Cabo San Lucas Stores: There are three principal shopping areas in Cabo San Lucas: 1) tourist mall called Plaza Paraiso that is a welcome air conditioned indoor mall on the marina; 2) along the streets west of El Squid Roe in the direction of the Pacific Ocean and 3) along the streets behind Cabo Wabo.
The mall is great if you like paying too much and don't want to have much negotiating room. The kids love the Haagen Dazs but the old pros don't seem to buy too much stuff in the mall. If you've torn your last Tommy Bahama shirt sportfishing (er, excuse to drink beer with the boys) there's a good (but, again, overpriced) store. Likewise, you can find some good cheapo sunglasses if you step on your last pair. There are some good restaurants attached to the mall (but you won't find us recommending Ruth's Chris--why the heck would you go to Mexico to try an American steak chain restaurant; do that when your company forces you to go to Kansas City in the summer for a business meeting!).
The streets west of El Squid Roe contain a number of outdoor bazaar-style vendors of traditional tourist chochkies. Probably 2 of 3 newbies bring home some Cabo shot glasses, for example. We like the silly scary-faced masks and the peuter dishes as well as the utility bowls for serving salsa, etc. (Note that for real quality cookware you should go to San Jose del Cabo, described below).
In the shopping area around and behind Cabo Wabo you'll find more jewelry stores where silver, turquoise and opals rule the day. You'll likely want to shop the first round just to investigate pricing on the things you like, then go back to the stores a second time to negotiate. There are so many stores with the same things that, for a first-timer you should figure out which stores offer the good deals. Just don't hesitate to walk out if you don't get the price you want; you'll find the same thing somewhere else.
San Jose del Cabo Stores: San Jose del Cabo is more of a residential town where locals who serve the tourist industry live (a generalization of course but, I am told, a valid assertion). Accordingly, there are neat stores all over the city. My focus here is on the easily accessible tourist locations where we have found good stuff.
In San Jose, the action for tourists and dining is concentrated around the town square (www.loscabosguide.com/ maps/ downtown-sanjose.htm - remove all spaces to create one URL). Naturally, bargaining is still expected here. We have found some delightful jewelry in the strip of stores where, on the map URL provided, dot 29 is found across from the town square. Next door is a great housewares ceramics store called Necri owned by a Gringo named Darin who is a wealth of information, not to mention great very high-quality dishes. We've purchased hundreds of dollars of stuff from Necri. Also try Darin's Cabo-Heat hot sauce; great stuff but dip carefully! The other reason to come to San Jose del Cabo is the dining, which is truly world class at about 4 restaurants in town (described in our restaurants section in our goList).
Shops at Palmilla: We rarely find a reason to shop at boutiques in foreign countries, but that is because we live in Los Angeles, where we have everything we could possibly want. For those upscale shoppers living in smaller towns or who are just addicted to boutiques, consider going to the Shops at the Palmilla. We've never been but anything connected to the Palmilla is world class. Frankly, you should drive down to the Palmilla and have a drink at the Aqua pool bar one evening and feel like you've entered heaven. No wonder celebrities like to go there. |
|
|
|
11. Activities: Waverunners
|
|
Waverunners are, respectfully, a truly great way for us near-middle-aged cityfolk to feel a bit more redneck and alive--then the all-body soreness kicks in for a few days! When you're down at Medano Beach (better for nice waves to jump over since there are so many boats crossing the bay), rent a waverunner for an hour for around $70-$80 after negotiations from Baja's, one of the vendors just west of Billigans on the beach. They're professional and nice guys and happy to do a discounted deal if you choose to extend after your first hour. It is sometimes helpful to book a time in advance if you're in Cabo in high season (i.e. not the dead of summer which is a bit slower).
The great thing about Waverunners is that you can pick your own type of ride. Take it slow and putter along, being rolled to and fro by the waves, or take charge and hit the throttle, looking out for big waves. A nice trick is to follow the wake of the parasailing (another activity, but we haven't tried it so cannot comment) boats and cross at a 90 degree angle, hitting the waves of the wake and catching some nice air. Be prepared to stand up a bit on the landing lest the family jewels be potentially injured. If you leave your shirt on, be sure to have a replacement--the shirt will stink to high heaven when it dries so it's best to have a fresh one. Have fun and hold on tight! |
|
|
|
12. Activities: Glass-bottomed Water Taxi to Lovers Beach
|
|
There is a beautiful, secluded beach near the famous Arch that can only be reached by water taxi. From Medano Beach (where Billigans, the Office, Mango Deck are), pick up snorkeling equipment and a round-trip ride to/from Lovers Beach for $15 per person. They'll ask $20 but tell them your final offer is $15 and they'll do the deal. Taxi should be $7 per person round trip without snorkel equipment.
At Lovers Beach you'll find a bridge of sand between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez (the bay of Cabo side). If you (cautiously) go into the water on the Pacific side you'll notice slight temperature and salinity (saltiness) differences of the water. It's a great half-day trip. Bring some picnic stuff and lots of water; it can be very hot there. Also, the embarking and disembarking are rough so it might be best to wait until your kids are at least 6 (or more brave than ours; we can speak from experience!). |
|
|
|
13. Activities: All the other stuff we haven't tried
|
|
The activities that attract us are as different as we all are individually. Some other activities that appeal to lots of Gringos but which we have not yet tried include:
- Diving off of Cabo Pulmo (a bit of a haul according to some friends, but a nice day)
- Sportfishing - One of the traditional draws for big bellied "real men" to come to Cabo; as long as you know that you're not guaranteed to catch anything...
- Parasailing - dragged by a cable from a boat while wearing a parachute and carried up some 150 feet in the air
- ATV's - fun deathtraps that give you a chance to have fun in the hills and barrancas
- Baja go-karts - the most upscale of guys' automotive outings, rollbars and all
- Horseback riding - best not done in the heat but it'll make you feel more like Zapata
- Pirate's Cruise - www.pirateshipcabo.com - great for the kids
- Helicopter flights - hmmm...would like to see the maintenance records first
- Ocean kayaking - my sister loves it; kinda puts me to sleep but hey, give it a shot
- Panning for gold - didn't we try that at the Grand Canyon? ;-) |
|
|
|
14. Restaurants: World Class: Local 8 in San Jose del Cabo
|
|
| One of the great things about going to Cabo is that you can get low-end at dive bars or dine at unbelievable restaurants like Local 8 in San Jose. From the whole tempura-battered seabass to the tender seared tuna and excellent wine list, Local 8's grub is great. About the only thing that beats Local 8's food is its ambiance. At night, it's just beautiful inside. It's expensive (four adults with drinks for about $400) but don't miss it. |
|
|
|
15. Restaurants: World Class: Tequila in San Jose del Cabo
|
|
| As with most of the high-end restaurants in San Jose, Tequila has a great rusted metal sign hanging perpendicularly above its doors, notifying all passersby that they have arrived at another garden of delights (okay, that was a bit fruity but it works). We have had 4 wonderful dinners at Tequila over the last several years and each one has been worth every penny ($250 for four people with drinks). Tequila has a limited menu of perhaps 4 items for each category (appetizers, salads, entrees) so it pours its heart and soul into each item. Tequila has a couple of specials each night that are creative and yummy, but the highlights are its octopus and lamb chops which, our foody friends recently said, were some of the best they'd ever eaten. Personally we like the filet mignon in the cabernet reduction sauce--makes my mouth water just thinking about it. You'll also enjoy the choice of patio or air conditioned indoor seating on comfy leather-covered wicker chairs, and their tequila bar has a wide selection--ask for a tasting tour. Skip Tropicana and the other big patio tourist restaurants in San Jose and make sure you get to Tequila. |
|
|
|
16. Restaurants: World Class: Morgan's in San Jose del Cabo
|
|
| We must admit to not yet having gone to Morgan's--we just can't stomach too many grand dinners every trip (we'll cop to having yogurt and cereal in the timeshare room on off-nights)--but Morgan's, like Tequila, shares a reputation for a nice ambiance and tasty food (appears from our review of its menu to be about the same price range as Tequila). It's bar is a nice place to start an evening in San Jose as well. Should definitely be on your list. |
|
|
|
17. Restaurants: World Class: La Bodega Steak and Wine House in San Jose del Cabo
|
|
| La Bodega is the new (2005) creation of the owners of La Dolce and another restaurant in San Jose, so they know their stuff. One of the best wine selections in San Jose and excellent steak. If you were tempted to go to Ruth's Chris for a steak, go to La Bodega instead. Why would anyone go to an American steakhouse in Mexico when there are local interpretations of the experience? Prices are standard steakhouse rates. |
|
|
|
18. Restaurants: World Class: Tiki Bar in Cabo San Lucas
|
|
There are probably 5 or 6 outstanding sushi restaurants in Cabo San Lucas, but we have a couple favorites. Tiki Bar is located next to Baja Cantina on the Marina but fairly far west, I believe in the Puebla Bonita hotel complex. If you walk toward the beach from Lorenzillo's restaurant and make a right turn at the dead end you'll be in the right direction (it's near the area where you'll board the Jungle Cruise).
The Tiki Bar has a warm, island feel to it and is best known for its very creative dishes, from marlin in a cilantro sauce to stuffed peppers to die for (we had 4 orders last time). The $20 all-you-can-eat option feels like a great deal in between the $400 dinners in San Jose, though you'll have to order things other than on the AYCE menu to get some of the more exotic stuff. Tiki Bar is a must-go, and the longish (15 minute) stroll back to the nightlife gives you a good opportunity to burp off the beer and fish ;-). |
|
|
|
19. Restaurants: World Class: Edith's (owners of The Office)
|
|
Beware: The discerning traveler should steer clear of the many Gringo tourist trap Mexican restaurants like Mi Casa, Panchos, Margaritavilla and the like, where the greasy beans and rice are overpriced and the food average (still probably better than the average newbie from Arkansas has ever had, however).
That's why Edith's is such a refreshing change. For a high-end, enjoyably set dining experience, Edith's is a great place for lobster and other well-prepared seafood with a Mexican flair. Dinner for 4 is pricey, at around $250 with drinks but well worth it. It is fine for kids, too, who can dine on quesadillas and tasty limonada as well. Edith's is located on the street that dead ends into The Office; from the main road in Cabo, turn toward the beach on the street at the City Club shopping center (even for us repeaters, there's no use in remembering street names). Edith's is at the top of the hill on the dirt road and there's valet parking if necessary. Note that on the still-paved section of that street, you'll pass another one of our favorites, La Golondrina (sometimes referred to as the Trailer Park restaurant). |
|
|
|
20. Restaurants: World Class: La Golondrina ("Trailer Park" Restaurant)
|
|
There are a lot of Trailer Parks in Cabo--literally, dusty mobile home parks with some questionable characters in them no doubt. It's good to know, therefore, that the Trailer Park restaurant, otherwise known as La Golondrina, is not really in an active trailer park with trailer park-type peeps.
As with many Cabo restaurants, the setting at La Golondrina (Spanish for "the wanderer", a trailer park reference) is quaint and authentic, with an outdoor patio seating area and a covered vaulted barn-style area with open sides that allows you to go even when raining. When you are seated, you will not be brought any menus--find that on the wall inside the cashier area, make your selection (you need to remember it, which can be hard when dining late after drinks) then tell your waiter when you get back to your table. It's a cute if not kitchy feature of this place.
The lobster and fish are outstanding, with creative dishes like the parmesan filet of seabass going down nicely. Kids can eat the usual fare.
Note: We regard the taste of the place world class, though the plastic seating leaves something to be desired; it is made up for by the warm evening lighting on the barn side, and the beautiful patio. Dinner for 4 with drinks runs at around $200. |
|
|
|
21. Restaurants: Good Cheap Eats: El Meson de Zapata
|
|
For some of the best dollar fish, steak, pork or whatever they find in the kitchen ;-) tacos and guac, head to El Meson de Zapata. Located adjacent to the statue of the Arch on the main road just a bit east of the Puerto Paraiso mall, this unassuming, slightly warm and fly-ridden (in the summertime) place earns top marks in all of Cabo by this blogger. The service is perfect, the beer ice cold (though no Pacificos, they serve all the others) and for 20 bucks you can stuff yourselves as if it's your last meal.
When you arrive, you receive a big bowl of chips (why no one ever loses weight in Cabo despite all the activity) along with a multi-compartmented piece of pottery with 6 different salsas, each yummy in its own right but great together on the tacos. We always chow down on the salsas with the chips, but they are key ingredients in the tacos you'll be ordering, too. We highly recommend the guacamole, which they make for you at the table with fresh ingredients--it's some of Cabo's best. If you don't feel like tacos, try the molcajete or the burritos or the steak. You'll be recommending the place to the other people you meat in the hotel pool, I promise. |
|
|
|
22. Restaurants: Good Cheap Eats: JapanGo Sushi (at the Nowhere Bar on the Marina)
|
|
Sometimes its hard to pinpoint why you like a place whose sushi is good but not unbelievable when there are more refined places to go. This patio sushi restaurant on the marina next to the famous Nowhere bar is just such a place. Perhaps its the action of being in the heart of the busiest pedestrian areas doing undercover peoplewatching, or perhaps its listening to the club tunes of the 90's (with the occasional current hip hop hit thrown in) bellowing out of the bar next door, but this place is just peachy.
For a fast dinner before heading to the clubs, try the Nowhere special roll, the spicy tuna roll and a few others. All the food is fresh, safe and good, and reasonably priced. Light dinner for 2 with drinks for $60. |
|
|
|
23. Restaurants: Good Cheap Eats: Pizza from Baja Cantina
|
|
Although Domino's delivers, sometimes when you need a tasty pizza to remind you of home or, as happened with us when we dined at Tiki Bar with the kids but had to get them something to eat, grab a pizza from Baja Cantina down at the western end of the Marina (see the description on our goList to Tiki Bar, which is next door to Baja Cantina).
Baja Cantina itself (as opposed to its pizza take-out) is not to be confused with the Southern California version, except that it is still a pick-up bar, primarily for Hispanics. The people are friendly, know tequila better than we Gringos, and will gladly engage in a conversation with another friendly drinker, though Spanish is the primary language at this bar. |
|
Compliment LAWorldTravelers
